Out on a lamb

 

 

 

The confit d'agneau arrived topped with flaming thyme sprigs.

 

Chez L'Ami Jean

27 rue Malar 75007

 

***

 

My 5 favorite bistrots

 

June newsletter 

 

Throwback Thursday

 

Today's throwback is to Le Train Bleu, the elegant restaurant overlooking the tracks inside the Gare de Lyon, from where trains still depart daily for the sun-drenched South of France. If the gastronomy doesn't lure you in (be sure to order their tableside-prepped Crêpes Suzette flambéed with Grand Marnier for dessert), the breathtaking decor certainly will: 41 monumental paintings by renowned Belle Époque artists adorn the walls and soaring ceilings, depicting tempting Côte d'Azur destinations to whet the appetite for travel. - BPJ

 

Soufflé Saturday

 

Blown away in Paris... One soufflé at a time.

 

Above: le soufflé au Grand Marnier

 

Joséphine Chez Dumonet

117 rue du Cherche-Midi 75006

 

 

Savory Saturday

 

 

Confit de canard, preserved duck leg, that humble yet sublime staple on many a bistro lunchtime blackboard.

 

 

 

*** 

 

Duck Duck Go:

 

Known to disappear off plates the moment its crispy skin crackles under a knife, confit de canard originated in the sun-dappled Gascony region of France. A simple culinary masterpiece, it showcases the rich, succulent flavors of duck preserved through a time-honored technique that involves slow-cooking duck legs in their own fat at a low temperature which creates a tender, melt-in-the-mouth texture and flavor.

Traditionally paired with crispy potatoes (pommes de terre sarladaises) preferably cooked in duck fat or, as above, served atop a purée of fresh potatoes to allow its rustic flavors to shine, it can also appear with nothing but a mixed-greens salad to balance its richness, and has become one of the highlights of classical French cuisine. - BPJ

 

Salat Saturday - Black Forest #2

 

 

 

Not just Kartoffelsalat.

 

 *** 

The Forêt Noire, sharing the border with France's Alsace region, is not all hiking, Schnaps fountains in the woods, vineyards, and half-timbered hamlets. With pop-up market stalls everywhere touting colorful seasonal vegetables from surrounding farms, we knew that wholesome meals couldn't be far. But on this trip we were especially on the lookout for Salate.

Living in Paris spoiled by a great variety of beautiful salads in restaurants and even modest cafés, we didn't suspect that if we veered off the beaten German potato-wurst-red cabbage-salads trail, exciting creations would be waiting to be discovered. On menus - and it wasn't obvious unless we asked - leafy giant Salate bursting with nuts, fresh herbs and fruits, piled high and tossed with light hazelnut oil vinaigrettes, quietly kept their distance from the Schnitzel and Schweinshaxen on the facing page. A "chicken salad" turned out to be an entire skinless breast poached in broth then served sliced atop a vibrant mix of at least ten different crisp veggies and fruits.

Returning to Paris inspired, we made a beeline for our local markets, ready to craft our own salads and bring some of that Black Forest magic to our Montmartre table. - BPJ

October newsletter

Below: French village in Alsace

 

PARIS - STRASBOURG

3 hours (or less) from Paris

 

Recommended: train/drive 

Train (1-hr 45 min) + car rental at station (45-min drive into Black Forest region)

Sunday lunch

 

Since 1908 La Fontaine de Mars near the Eiffel Tower has been serving traditional French dishes with an accent on cuisine from the French Southwest.

 

Below: the charm of a multi-course lunch en famille w/confit de canard, hearty cassoulet, more, and to finish (not shown) French regional cheeses, generous desserts

 

 

                                            photo below: Fontaine de Mars

La Fontaine de Mars

129 rue Saint-Dominique 75007 

 - With un grand remerciement to the staff -

 

💕

 

A small reward

 

 

A classic dating from the 1600s Profiteroles derives its name from "profit," a type of small gratifying reward that arrives at the end a large gratifying meal. - BPJ

 

Below: hot melted chocolate poured over choux pastry filled with vanilla bean ice cream creates a chaud-froid sensation

 

 

 

Fish Friday

 

It's Le Vendredi saint, Holy Friday, a day for fish.

Above: smoked salmon tartine with a glass of white

 

Delikatessen Kaviari

60 rue François Miron 75004

Fishy Friday

 

Al fresco dining in a unique and special garden. 

Can you guess?

- Tomorrow -

 

Spice is nice

 

 

A shop in Fez or Jerusalem or Istanbul?

No, these exotic spices and wonderful things from all over the world are in Paris in the heart of the old Marais.

 

IZRAËL

30 rue François Miron 75004

 

Wine Wednesday

 

Au comptoir 

 

Exquisite wines by the glass with French tapas.... 

Who needs more?

 

*** 

Wine bar

 L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre

3 Carrefour de l'Odéon 75006

 

Titanic Tuesday

The tomb of Titanic survivor Léontine Pauline Aubart - known as "Ninette" and played by Fannie Brett in the 1997 film Titanic (director: James Cameron) - in Saint Vincent Cemetery, Montmartre. 

***

Cabaret singer who sometimes performed at Le Lapin Agile, Ninette had accompanied billionaire Benjamin Guggenheim who kept an apartment in Paris. While she was saved by being able to get a place in a lifeboat, Guggenheim wasn't so fortunate. According to one account, realizing the end was near, he and his faithful secretary Giglio dressed in evening clothes and headed to the grand staircase and ballroom where they would "go down as gentlemen," sipping brandy.

As First-Class passengers, Ninette and Benjamin would have enjoyed lavish meals, even by French standards. Today, menus from the Titanic are quite valuable and sought after by collectors.  

"The last meal for first-class diners that fateful night was a grand affair that included starters of canapés and oysters, a second course of consommé Olga (a clear veal soup garnished with scallops), a third course of poached salmon with mousseline sauce, and a fourth course of filet mignons Lili or chicken Lyonnaise with marrow farci (stuffed vegetables). 

 The mains catered to most people’s tastes. There was lamb, duckling and beef, with buttery roast potatoes, boiled potatoes, minted peas, carrots and rice. After a rum-infused palate cleanser of punch romaine (the sixth course), guests moved on to roasted squab (pigeon) with wilted cress, asparagus salad with Champagne saffron vinaigrette and pâté de foie gras with celery. In fact, with a grand total of 11 courses, it’s hard to imagine how they fitted it all in. 

To round off that fateful meal, there was Waldorf pudding, peaches in Chartreuse jelly, chocolate and vanilla éclairs, French ice cream, assorted fresh fruit and cheeses. While some first-class diners would have eaten in one of the cafés or the à la carte restaurant, for others this would have been their last meal – a few hours later more than 120 first-class passengers died, mainly men."  - Source: Lovefood.com The Titanic’s incredible menu revealed – for every class - BPJ

Caramel crunch

Indescribable apple dessert topped with caramel au beurre salé ice cream, fait maison.

 Merci Jean-Christophe!

Fish Friday

 Sea bream and chorizo float atop layers of two velvety sauces, sweet potatoes, and beneath (quelle surprise!), sweet green pea purée.

 ***

 May newsletter:

 Why the French are so saucy

View from a table

 

Le Grand Véfour, another classic I'd written up for USA Today, is not that different from the days Napoléon and Joséphine played footsies under the table.

Excerpt:

Hopelessly romantic. Spectacularly beautiful. Brilliant food. This ultra elegant Michelin star makes a perfect "last night in Paris" - for USA Today... - BPJ

Chef de cuisine Guy Martin

 🍾🍾🍾

 

Le Grand Véfour

 17 rue de Beaujolais 75001

 

Closed Sunday and Monday

 

***

 

- Be sure and book the salle historique on the ground floor -

 

A chef's salad

Chef Yves Camdeborde's irresistible salade gourmande: 

green beans, artichokes, more, topped by a slice of foie gras

Le Relais Comptoir
9 Carrefour de l'Odéon 75006

 

***

 

In February newsletter:

Some dishes from my childhood

 

Tripes à la mode (de Caen)

Légumes farcis à la provençale

Bacalao (salt dried codfish) w/bananes plaintain

 Omelette aux herbes a.k.a. "Daddy's green omelet"

Pied de porc en gelée

 Fromage de tête

Beef tongue w/pickles

 Tête de veau

Rognons de veau

Hasenpfeffer w/juniper berries

German Rinderrouladen

 

 More....

 

To my Father

 

 

Most missed

One of the things I missed most during le lockdown? Chaotic sharing meals around a table, with friends.

  

***

10 things I missed most
July newsletter

A week in Provence #3

Roaming the charming streets of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence with its shops, galleries, cafés and quiet fountain squares.

Below: dessert Paris Brest - Provence style

Wine time

Paris wine restaurants and wine bars: why are they so special?

March newsletter

A Paris butcher

 

 

Head bowed in reverie, a butcher prepares a roast for pickup.