The forecast said cool, the terrace said, "Pull up a chair."
13 October 2026
12 October 2026
Marching Monday
This year's Fête des Vendanges celebrations came and went as Montmartre marched to its own beat.
More photos November newsletter
Below: tourists clink glasses at the end of a long and festive day
11 October 2026
10 October 2026
Sitting Saturday
A dog’s life... "So where's the meat?"
The Butcher of Paris
Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges
39 rue de Bretagne 75003
***
Update Monday October 12, 2026
Paris woke up to the sad news that the historic Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges, the oldest covered market in Paris, was "ravaged by flames" in the wee morning hours.
The name comes from the nearby Hospice des Enfants-Rouges, where orphans were dressed in red, the traditional color of charity. Its Instagrammable food stalls, street-food, and produce vendors became world renown. The market had evolved into a popular mix of traditional stalls and international street food/traiteur spots after its late-1990s/early-2000s revival. As the city's oldest covered food market still in continuous use (founded 1615 under Louis XIII as the “petit marché du Marais,” later renamed), it was inscribed as a historic monument in 1982. Early versions used wood; after it was acquired in 1912, wooden halls were replaced by metal structures topped with glass roofs. A major rehabilitation (following near-demolition threats in the 1990s for ready, a parking project) took roughly five to six years and led to re-opening around 2000.
The stalls themselves are easy to replace, and once the shell is usable again restoration should be relatively straightforward. But restoring a functional, historical covered market is a serious project involving structural engineering, heritage oversight, and significant works. The fact that surrounding buildings are intact and the site has strong local and municipal backing makes successful restoration the expected outcome. Official damage assessments and reconstruction plans will clarify the exact scope in the coming days/weeks. Let’s hope it’s back on its feet again soon. - BPJ
Paris woke up to the sad news that the historic Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges, the oldest covered market in Paris, was "ravaged by flames" in the wee morning hours.
The name comes from the nearby Hospice des Enfants-Rouges, where orphans were dressed in red, the traditional color of charity. Its Instagrammable food stalls, street-food, and produce vendors became world renown. The market had evolved into a popular mix of traditional stalls and international street food/traiteur spots after its late-1990s/early-2000s revival. As the city's oldest covered food market still in continuous use (founded 1615 under Louis XIII as the “petit marché du Marais,” later renamed), it was inscribed as a historic monument in 1982. Early versions used wood; after it was acquired in 1912, wooden halls were replaced by metal structures topped with glass roofs. A major rehabilitation (following near-demolition threats in the 1990s for ready, a parking project) took roughly five to six years and led to re-opening around 2000.
The stalls themselves are easy to replace, and once the shell is usable again restoration should be relatively straightforward. But restoring a functional, historical covered market is a serious project involving structural engineering, heritage oversight, and significant works. The fact that surrounding buildings are intact and the site has strong local and municipal backing makes successful restoration the expected outcome. Official damage assessments and reconstruction plans will clarify the exact scope in the coming days/weeks. Let’s hope it’s back on its feet again soon. - BPJ
9 October 2026
Fête Friday
Feeling grape-ful as the last vineyard in Paris celebrates the harvest.
- ALL WEEKEND -
LE VILLAGE EN FÊTE
Annual Fête des Vendanges
Ends Sunday October 11
8 October 2026
Thursday threesome
Three reasons to linger longer... One sip at a time.
Iced latte
Espresso martini
Passionfruit martini
7 October 2026
Wide-angle Wednesday
Vincent Van Gogh's church at Auvers-sur-Oise gets a BBL.
Below: paintings line the center aisle
(click to enlarge)
3 hours (or less) from Paris
(35-50 minutes depending on mode of transport / day of the week)
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