3 hours (or less) from Paris: Côte d'Azur #2

Exploring the corners and byways of hilltop village Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the oldest medieval village in the South of France.

Below: a cobbled climb; cloudy and cool at the top; apéro at Le Tilleul

Some like it hot

Beat the heat in The City of Love and hole up à deux for a sizzling night (or two - why not?) at one of the capital's many air-conditioned hotels - ask if the hotel is climatisé or has climatisation. Indoor swimming pool, cocktail bar and spa a plus.

Above: afternoon room service

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The heat is on. Again. But you won't hear that refrain on everyone's lips these days, "Il fait chaud!", coming from me. In comparison to summers I've known in Arizona (dry), New York (humid), the South of France chez my French in-laws (cigales chirping in unison each evening), Morocco (early errand runs) and Spain (¡Ay, que calor!) - and how about those five weeks in India? - Paris' brief canicules seem almost tame. It helps living in an airy apartment / artist's loft in always-slightly-cooler Montmartre in a well-insulated historic building. A plus: an interior courtyard with shade trees reduces the need for AC; a fan will suffice as temperatures rise. 

 

Some tips for keeping your cool in Paris:

Sip water throughout the day (skip ice-cold and sugary drinks), take cool showers, avoid caffeine, heavy physical activity, and the métro. Uber and G7 taxis are your friends - they usually have AC. Get your errands and sightseeing done early while it’s still fresh out, stay out of direct sunlight, and if possible, nap during hottest hours (in other words, copy cats). More: libraries, parks, gardens, churches - search: air-conditioned spaces open to the public Paris. Come evening, treat yourself to a tall cool one.

 

Pro tips: The city’s many chocolate shops, larger movie theaters and supermarkets (Carrefour, Champion, G20, Franprix etc.) all have strong AC - sometimes so strong the cashiers are wearing sweaters. Keep shutters and windows closed during the day to block out the heat. Or, if you can, head to the mountains. - BPJ

 

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Fans / ventilateurs
  Space air conditioners / climatiseurs available at:

Darty, Castorama, Conforama, BHV, Bricorama, Mr. Bricolage, Leroy Merlin, Lidl

Moon lighting

This month's full moon over the Basilica from a friend's Montmartre terrace.

Good morning pastry

A new crop of breakfast pastries is muscling out traditional croissants au beurre and pains au chocolat.

Above: a buttery kouign-amann made with cinnamon, hazelnuts, and, quelle surprise, peanuts

Bike on white

A white bicycle against a white wall in the 14th arrondissement.

L'art de vivre

L'art de vivre is a quintessentially French concept. It’s a love of life’s small things and quiet pursuit of beauty, in mind as well as body. It’s taking pleasure in ordinary gestures, whether preparing a cup of tea or selecting the perfect stationery. - BPJ

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Adapted from:

L'Art de Vivre - Barbara Pasquet James

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- With a special thanks to Linda Gray, beautiful in every sense of the word -

 

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I think everything in life is art. What you do. How you dress. The way you love someone, and how you talk. Your smile and your personality. What you believe in, and all your dreams. The way you drink your tea. How you decorate your home. Or party. Your grocery list. The food you make. How your writing looks. And the way you feel. Life is art. - Actress Helena Bonham Carter

Une vie romantique

Tucked away behind Place Pigalle, the gardens of the Musée de la Vie Romantique are perfect for a relaxed afternoon of tea and pastries. 

Below: inside the museum

La Musée de la Vie Romantique

16 rue Chaptal 75009

On its own

In Italy pasta is usually a starter, not main, course, as in the U.S. But this foie gras-filled ravioli with a white truffle cream sauce would be an exception.

Where to find it
August newsletter

Café brocante

A one-day pop-up neighborhood flea market in Montmartre.

Casual chic

Love this place. Its chic black and red interior has barely changed since I wrote it up for USA Today except that sadly, Joël Robuchon is no longer with us.

Above: reserve a seat at one of the counters to keep an eye on the action 

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

5 rue de Montalembert 75007

 

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 From “Where To Eat: Some of the hottest spots" - USA Today Paris City Guide
by Barbara Pasquet James

 

Legendary chef Joël Robuchon had gone gently into retirement but he’s back, with an exciting new concept, new restaurant – well, new everything. Chefs dress in black, not white; the staff's in red; the ambience is casual, tip-top and totally smoke-free (note: written pre-2008 no-smoking-inside-restaurants law). Robuchon, considered to be the finest French chef of the twentieth century who, in 1996, had passed the torch to his successor, Alain Ducasse, comes out of the kitchen and wanders from table to counter. Is everyone happy? They’re ecstatic. Be prepared for a combination of tapas-influenced dishes with a Japanese look and style. In fact, there is now a twin of the Paris version in Tokyo. Reasonable prices, to-die-for food. Open seven days; reservations absolutely essential; L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, 5, rue de Montalembert, 75007, Métro Rue de Bac, (331) 42 22 56 56. - Update 6/2021: Pricey

Le 14 juillet

Private party with unbelievable views of last night's Bastille Day fireworks high from a friend's magnificent Montmartre terrace.

 

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Merci à toute la bande...

A dinner for 8

Fabulous evening with seven gorgeous, fun, successful women, all old friends converging from New York, Geneva and Paris, excited to be together at the same time in Paris.

Below: classic moelleux au chocolat a simple finale to a sumptuous dinner in the shadow of Napoleon's Tomb

 

Restaurant Vauban

7 Place Vauban 75007

 

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Un grand merci à toute l'équipe

 

and especially Paula

 

Marché mania

Beautiful markets, beautiful meals.

Fresh, seasonal, local produce make food shopping in Paris a pleasure.

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Markets open all summer

August newsletter

Chimney cakes

Street food from Czechia with sweet or savory fillings.
Excellent coffee.

Alma The Chimney Cake Factory

59 Boulevard Beaumarchais 75003

Museum menagerie

Jaw-dropping Grande Galerie de l'Évolution inside Paris' Museum of Natural History.

Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle
(Jardin des Plantes)
57 rue Cuvier 75005

 

(click to enlarge) 

Season of the spritz

Originating in Italy the Aperol Spritz continues to reign as Paris' #1 summer terrace drink.

Breakfast view

Stunning views over the city from family vacation apartment.

Paris in heat

 An early visit to the Saint-Ouen flea market is followed by a light casual sharing lunch in AC.

Above: pitcher of icy citronnade maison; spread of foie gras, roast farm chicken, burrata-on-pesto, Spanish ham, radishes, frites maison

 

Ma Cocotte

Marché Paul Bert  
106 rue des Rosiers 93400 Saint-Ouen

Chef de cuisine: Norbert Tarayre
Design: Philippe Starck

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- Ditch the canicule for these cool places to beat the heat -
July newsletter
Nouveautés 

 

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Merci Family Hopkins

Manga and monsters

An off-the-radar small museum near the Louvre features unique exhibitions.

 

"Monsters Manga and Murakami"

Ends September 22

Musée en Herbe

23 rue de l'Arbre Sec 75001

"それがモンスターのように見えたら..."

 Translation: "If it looks like a monster...."

Café klatsch

Before...

After.

Above: temperatures - and life - return to normal

"Kaffeeklatsch (German): an informal social gathering for coffee and conversation"

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"In the world of the Parisian sidewalk café, where rudeness is no more remarkable than cracks in the pavement, Jean Francois, the waiter at La Palette on the rue de Seine in St-Germain, looms as a cultural high-water mark. 'He is the rudest waiter in all Paris,' says the Paris-based Barbara Pasquet James, editor-at-large for Bonjour Paris, the Internet Franco-zine. This is more than one person’s opinion. Jean Francois’ disdain for his customers, his capacity for inattention, and his penchant for brusqueness have been documented on web sites and limned in guidebooks: 'You must order quickly and without indecision, or he’ll ignore you until you’ve learned your lesson,' says Access Paris (HarperCollins Publishers)." - From "Café Klatsch" (2002) by Jack Smith, luxury lifestyle magazine Robb Report

Anthony Bourdain moment

Above: artisanal breadmaking workshop on Anthony Bourdain's birthday last week

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“We have a lot to talk about. But I think it’s the things we disagree about that are more fun.”

Anthony Bourdain on chef Eric Ripert

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Learn to make real French bread in Paris
July newsletter

Pork belly bliss

Chef Yves Camdeborde's crunchy poitrine de porc atop a kimchi slaw on black squid ink bread fait maison.