29 February 2020

Valentine's night

Looking back:

February saw the Feast of Saint Valentine, and high on the butte behind the doors of a once private mansion awaited a surprise evening.

Above: arriving at the Hotel Particulier; inside, special décor for a very special night

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre
Pavillon, 23 Avenue Junot D, 75018

More in March newsletter

28 February 2020

27 February 2020


Baby sister of the Grand Palais just across the street, the Petit Palais is one of the grandest museums in Paris.

Le Petit Palais

Avenue Winston Churchill 75008

26 February 2020


At Twinings tea room above W. H. Smith English bookstore, rue de Rivoli.

Below: a cheddar and chutney plate

"Le salon de thé le plus secret de Paris..."

24 February 2020

Ralph's is always a good idea

A cozy respite, a lingering lunch, a wintry day. 

Above: my truffle cheeseburger, frites maison and cocktail du jour (champagne, Cointreau, rosé); entry courtyard

Below: view from our table near the fireplace that dominates the main dining room

173 Boulevard Saint-Germain 75006

For Ralph

22 February 2020

21 February 2020

Fashion Week 2/2020

This Monday the city becomes a (fun) madhouse as designers present their collections.

Monday February 24 - Tuesday March 3

20 February 2020


Above: snails in parsley garlic butter
Below: foie gras de canard on toasts, as entrées

Le Comptoir du Relais
5 Carrefour de l'Odéon 75006

Chef de cuisine: Yves Camdeborde

19 February 2020


Last days for the Leonardo di Vinci exhibition at the Musée du Louvre.

- Ends February 24 -

Below: The Last Supper

17 February 2020

12 February 2020

Holiday crumbs

All the month of January and even into February traditional galettes des rois were king.

Above: almond and butter cream pastry frangipane filling

Gérard Mulot
78 rue de Seine 75006 

11 February 2020

Dalí: tout simplement

At the age of six, Salvador Dali (1904-1989) wanted to be a cook. At the age of seven, he wanted to be Napoleon. "Since then," he later said, "my ambition has steadily grown, and my megalomania with it. Now I want only to be Salvador Dali, I have no greater wish."

Dalí. The Paintings
Authors: Robert Descharnes and Gilles Neret

2 rue de Buci 75006

8 February 2020

7 February 2020

Café fleuri

Bright flowers at this Left Bank corner café cheer up a winter's day.

Café Cassette
73 rue de Rennes 75006

6 February 2020

Tartine lunch

Simple, light, beautiful lunch entre Parisiennes on the Left Bank.

Above: jambon cru, house mayo on grilled Pain Poilâne; miso soup starter

5 February 2020

Hello dolly

An antique doll in a storefront window in the Marais district.


Tonight and every Wednesday:

Live music starting at 7 p.m.
Le Grand Comptoir d'Anvers
2 Place d'Anvers 75009

4 February 2020

Then, and now

Back wall in local café-restaurant before its overhaul.

Below: same wall, after

3 February 2020

1 February 2020

Farewell, Monsieur Bleu

Yesterday saw the funeral of Michou, a living legend whose cabaret on rue des Martyrs was a Montmartre fixture since 1956 and inspired the film, "La Cage aux Folles." 

 Below: Michou's portrait precedes his hearse painted in his trademark sky blue; mourners arriving; crowd at cemetery door


  From "Out On The Town: Best Offbeat Performance” - USA Today Paris City Guide
by Barbara Pasquet James

Best Offbeat Performance - Chez Michou. Ancient drag queens cavort in a tiny, elegant and expensive boite de nuit on a tiny, elegant stage. The show is decidedly French, and, depending on who’s up when you go, you’ll see everyone from Edith Piaf to Sammy Davis Jr. who incredibly morphs into Shirley Bassey mid-number. Phone: 01 46 06 16 04, 80 rue des Martyrs, 75018. (Métro: Abbesses or Pigalle)


Adieu Prince Bleu de Montmartre