Years ago living in Spain I taught myself how to make bagels. Quite simply, I craved them - and couldn't find any to my liking. I'd been making my own breads for awhile and found the entire process - measuring, mixing, kneading, letting the dough rise, baking (or, in the case of flatbreads, rolling out and pan grilling) - a relaxing way to spend a weekend afternoon.
For bagels I'd get up early, and as the morning edged towards brunch time there would be drop-ins, music, a glass of something and, in cold weather, a blazing fire, and in no time at all the bagels were ready. They were water bagels - boiled before baking - and when finished we'd split them open and toast them, open-faced, then pile alongside a huge platter of smoked salmon, smoked whitefish, flavored cream cheeses (home made), thinly-sliced tomatoes, red onions, some capers, olive oil, lemons, salt and pepper. Champagne with a splash of Cointreau, a "French touch" (thank you Ralph), was the standard accompaniment. And Moroccan spiced coffee. Making bagels from scratch meant I could control every aspect: size (I prefer smaller), types of flour, ingredients, and toppings - which changed with every batch depending on what I had on hand.
So where is my favorite bagel in Paris? As of this posting, and as far as I'm concerned, chez moi. BPJ
Above: whole-wheat bagel tartines topped with chicken salad made with a light dressing of lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, chopped mint, salt, pepper
Topping: black sesame seeds, fennel seeds, coarse salt, za'atar (Middle Eastern mixture of thyme, oregano, sesame seeds, salt, and sumac. Make your own or buy at Lebanese market stalls)
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[Photos were forwarded by dear friends to a cousin whose brother was Barry of Barry's Bagels in Ohio and, I am told, they "made his mouth water" - and that's good enough for me.]
- Recipes in February newsletter -
