Chez Vincent

Passersby at #54 rue Lepic where Dutch artist Vincent Van Gogh lived for two years with his brother Théo, an art dealer, usually have to be satisfied with the small plaque on the wall outside.

Above: a peek inside

 

Musique en fête

 

This year's fête de la musique was especially high-spirited after over a year of on/off lockdowns.

 Above: almost every square, street corner and café terrace in Montmartre had its music

Moon Monday

 

 

Return to Paris and a June moon on the first day of summer.

- Tomorrow -

 

 La Fête de la Musique

 

A Paris escape #7

Our trip ended here, in the village of Salers. Then it was back to Paris.

 Above: from a café table 

Below: side street; lakeside lunch; inside tiny commune Le Falgoux; one last cup w/soaring views 

 

 

s

A Paris escape #6

 

 

 

Meandering through the refreshing Cantal, our last stop, was a welcome few days... moreso knowing Paris was in the middle of a heatwave. The region, renown for its tranquil beauty, gets its moment of fame almost every year during the Tour de France and is on the Auvergne Cheese Route.

 

 Above: Puy Mary (yes that's snow) an ancient volcano

 

***

 

Mad Cow Dept: How to Prevent an Attack by a Cow

 

(Short version) 

Due to the location of their eyes cows do not have a straight line of sight, so make sure they respond to your voice. 

 

If you detect an aggressive cow keep moving calmly and do not make direct eye contact.

 

 Keep your body facing the cow at all times. Do not turn your back or run.

 

And finally, if you are attacked, hitting the cow directly on the nose will deter it. - BPJ

 

 

(Long version) 

When it comes to preventing an attack by a cow, there are several key steps you can take to ensure your safety in such a situation. First and foremost, it’s important to understand a little bit about how cows perceive the world around them. Due to the positioning of their eyes on the sides of their heads, cows don’t have a perfectly straight line of sight like humans do. This means their vision is more focused on the sides rather than directly ahead, which can sometimes make them a bit unpredictable. To work with this, it’s a good idea to make sure the cow is aware of your presence by using your voice. Speak calmly and clearly, allowing the cow to hear you and respond to the sound, which can help them feel less startled or threatened as you approach or move nearby.

 

Next, if a cow starts to show signs of aggression—maybe it’s pawing the ground, lowering its head, or giving you that intense stare. In this case, the best thing you can do is keep moving, but do so in a calm and collected manner. There’s no need to rush or panic here; slow and steady is the name of the game. While you’re moving, be mindful not to make direct eye contact with the cow. Staring straight into its eyes might be interpreted as a challenge or a threat in the bovine world, and you definitely want to avoid escalating the situation unnecessarily. Instead, keep your gaze soft and averted while still staying aware of what the cow is doing.

 

Another critical point to remember is how you position yourself during this encounter. Always, always keep your body facing the cow. This doesn’t mean you need to stand there stiff as a board, but you should avoid turning your back on the animal completely. Turning away or, worse yet, running off in the opposite direction could trigger the cow’s instincts to chase or charge after you, and that’s a scenario you want to avoid. By keeping your front toward the cow, you’re showing that you’re present and aware, which can help maintain a sense of control over the interaction. Plus, it keeps you in a better position to react if things start to get dicey.

 

And finally—here’s the big one—if despite all your efforts, the cow decides to launch an attack, don’t panic! You’ve got one solid move up your sleeve to deter it. If the cow comes at you, aim a firm, direct hit right on its nose. Yes, you heard that right—give it a good smack on the snout! The nose is a sensitive spot for cows, and a solid tap there can startle or discourage the animal enough to back off and rethink its approach. But that's a last-resort tactic, of course, one worth keeping in mind just in case things take a turn for the worse. And btw much of this can apply to various homo sapiens who cross your path as well. Stay safe. - BPJ

 

A Paris escape #5

 

 

   

- Tomorrow: Le Cantal -

A Paris escape #4

 

 

From the Aubrac, it was a 2-hour scenic drive to Quercy with a stop in medieval Belcastel.

Above: view from our breakfast table; Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, jewel of the region

Below: market day in Figeac; rainbow after a flash storm

 

 

  

A Paris escape #3

 

 

Above: vistas

Below: a garden lunch; chez des amis, Estaing

 

(click photos to enlarge)

 

- Tomorrow: Quercy -

A Paris escape #2

 

 With lockdowns lifted as well as spirits, getting out and away is uppermost in many minds. 

June is one of our preferred months to travel as the weather can be summery with still cool evenings. And it's an ideal time to avoid the crowded seacoasts of July and August.

Last year's confinement and travel restrictions had slowed all travel to a grinding halt. But now that it's over, we decided to take a road trip that would embrace three beloved regions: Aubrac, to visit visit with friends and revisit favorite sites, the beautiful Quercy to the southwest, and finally, the last leg of our trip would finish in the Pays Basque - the French, not Spanish, side - where we'd planned to meet up with friends from Paris in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Perfect.

But it was not meant to be. Somewhere between the high plateaus of the Aubrac and the medieval clifftop village of Rocamadour we realized that a searing heatwave loomed over much of the country, especially the Basque part of our trip, and quickly tweaked our itinerary.

Instead, we'd spend the last few days in the Cantal, a fairytale region of cool forests, waterfalls, lakes, grottos and volcanic mountains formed 13 million years ago (and dormant for 12,000) - an easy drive from Quercy. There would be hiking, biking, villages and village markets and, mais bien sûr, Auvergne's rich cuisine: foie gras, duck confit, walnuts, truffles, charcuteries and some of France's most beloved cheeses, notably Saint-Nectaire and Bleu d'Auvergne. - BPJ

 Above: sunsets along the Camino de Santiago in the Aubrac

Below: first night au coin du feu* - to start, a tureen of creamy celeriac soup w/shredded confit de canard; Aubrac beef w/cheesy aligot; dessert (not shown), pears poached in red wine w/vanilla bean ice cream maison and sauce caramel

 

* hotel restaurant

(click photos to enlarge)

 

 

 

To My Father

 

A Paris escape

No need to head to Switzerland to escape a heatwave when La Belle France has more than enough mountains to go around.

Next week: where we (accidentally) dodged Paris' latest canicule

Pastry perfect

Perfect pastry on a perfect afternoon.

Masks off!

 

 

Starting today wearing face masks outdoors won't be compulsory. 

Complementary

Yellow door purple wall.