Rain shine

An empty street in Montmartre shines after a rain.

Reflecting

 

 

The small lake in Parc Monceau is a glassy reflecting pool on this wintry day.

Say cheese

Palate (and palette) pleasing AOC cheeses from a local fromagerie enhance the stay-at-home experience.

A palace in winter

 

(click to enlarge)  

 

The Palace of Versailles, Grand and Petit Trianon will remain closed but the park of Versailles, the lake of the Swiss Guard and the Estate of Marly are open to walking from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

 

- Check website regularly for updates -

Fall, on stairs

Fallen leaves cover this steep stairway from top to bottom.

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Autumn in Montmartre

3 hours (or less) from Paris: A taste of Istanbul

Looking back....

  There were spices destined for recipes handed down from grandmother to granddaughter, from generation to generation. There were spices for dishes yet to be conceived, and spices whose odors triggered memories buried for years... The sheer quantity and variety on offer were enough to make heads spin faster than a Whirling Dervish, and all the usual staples were present: coriander, cinnamon, allspice, ginger, flame red paprikas, cardamom, golden turmeric, saffron, green cumin, ground coconut, black, red, green and white peppercorns, curry mixtures, licorice, dangling strings of dried eggplants, peppers, dried fruits, dates, chilies and okra; pastries galore, boxes, bags, tins and bins of rose waters, rose buds, oils, henna, natural sponges, herbs, seeds, beans and nuts of every persuasion and hue, including Turkey’s famously flavorful pistachios.

 From, "Turkish Delight on a Moonlit Night" © Barbara Pasquet James

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Adjectives describing the ancient Ottoman city straddling the Bosphorus are as plentiful as the vendors selling bright pomegranate juice on almost every corner. But due to political upheavals and other factors over recent years, tourism in what was one of the world's most vibrant destinations - just a 3-hour flight from Paris - has dwindled dramatically. And that is unfortunate. Having had family based in Beyoğlu, the district of narrow cobbled streets bulging with hip cafés, restaurants and tons of ambiance on the European side, we were able to enjoy this city like locals. Forever in search of a gastronomic discovery, I especially loved exploring the fish markets with their small tables set up under bridges, the wood-pit rotisseries and Turkish coffee enclaves but mostly, wandering through the spices and food markets on the Anatolian or Asian side, which exuded an entirely different feel. - BPJ

  Above: food stalls in Istanbul's ancient spice bazaar Misir Carsisi a.k.a. The Egyptian market

 

Below: tea nooks line market passageways; simit, a twisted bagel-like bread covered in sesame (or poppy) seeds; women rolling out yufka, Turkey's paper-thin national flatbread;
classic Hagia Sophia skyline from a boat

 

(click photos to enlarge)

A turkey in Turkey

 

 

 A week ago today marked Thanksgiving, a favorite American holiday that, in France, or any country outside the US, usually gets put on hold until the weekend, as ours does almost every year. But the upshot is that because of the weekend option there is often more than one Thanksgiving feast over the four days spanning Thursday through Sunday.

 

The exquisite bird, (above) weighing in at eight kilos and just out of the oven, was left to repose for about an hour before being carved so its juices could be redistributed. Ordered two weeks ahead from an organic farm, it had been brined overnight before being roasted, and reminded me of the Thanksgiving turkey with crackling skin we had in Istanbul a few years back, high on a terrace overlooking the Bosphorus with postcard views of the city skyline at sunset.

 

That was the first time I'd ever had a brined turkey and it was a game changer. The guests were from all over the world, and while everyone was working their way through Turkish mezze appetizers as well as delectable French hors d'oeuvres spread out on a terrace table outside, inside, traditional Thanksgiving side dishes and pies were being laid out buffet style, making it a truly international feast. - BPJ

 

Merci Tom Paris

 

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Tomorrow:

Looking back: fooding and spice markets in Old Istanbul