A Montmartre garden

Renoir's garden as part of the Montmartre Museum, once a stately home.

Below: a view from the pond

A shady spot

Relaxing on the tip of the Île Saint-Louis.

Fromages en fleur

Flip your cheeseboard (and host/hostess status) into new realms with AOC goat's milk cheeses smothered in petals.

September terrace

Taking advantage of warm evenings before it gets too wintry.

À partager

A simple charcuterie-cheeseboard (planche mixte) to share, enough for a light meal.

Above: La Tartine - 24 rue de Rivoli 75004

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Charcuterie-cheese memories: 
  When I was in high school my father would pick me up after work and we'd sneak off to a tiny French épicerie in Georgetown to load up on patés, cheeses, sausages, greek olives, and fresh baguette, then sit quietly in the car together, indulging. When we got home to my mom's dinner she'd say, "I hope you're hungry!" to which we'd say, we were "starving".... - BPJ

Market mix

There's something for everyone on Paris' market streets.

Above: by noon the square in front of l'Église Saint Médard resembles a village scene in Provence

Below: fall vegetables make a comeback; fresh oysters and wine at a fish stall; singing to the tune of roasting chickens; dancing on an open square

Mouffetard Street Market

Start at chocolaterie Mococha #89 rue Mouffetard and meander down

Best day: Sunday

Calm before the market

Ernest Hemingway described Rue Mouffetard as, "that wonderful crowded market street which led into Place Contrescarpe."

In an hour there will be shouting vendors, cafés, small shops and stalls selling fresh produce, cheeses, wines, fish, breads, pastries, more. Add live music and dancing on Sundays and "La Mouffe" is an outing. - BPJ