Tea for three

Tea at the CHANEL Boutique on rue Cambon.

Perfume me

 

 

"Shall I perfume you?"

In France, perfume is such an integral part of the culture that it’s a verb. 

The offer for a light misting was coming from the exuberant Versailles-born Christian Louis, whose charming shop nestled under a Place des Vosges archway is my personal favorite small Paris parfumerie, worth a visit on its own. With its copper stills and colors of the Côte d'Azur it exudes a feel of bygone days mixed with a touch of a miniature Willy Wonka factory. It is, simply, a realm of beautiful scents, all created by Louis, holder of the prestigious title and position of one of France's rare Master Perfumers. Louis, whose workshop is in Grasse, will carefully scope a newcomer up and down and expertly match one of his creations to their "type" - reciting the ordained perfume's essential essences with passion (“orange peel, black pepper, wild rose, tuberose!”). And he's never wrong.

France has been the Oz of beautiful fragrances for centuries. Its most iconic brands - Guerlain, CHANEL, Nina Ricci, Fragonard, Lancôme, Yves Saint Laurent, Sisley, Hermès, Jean Patou, Miss Dior - are known the world over. Yet every year, a new crop of débutantes enter the market, making the choices seem endless. Where to start? Most find it easier to play it safe and stick to the classics.

 

But Paris affords the luxury of under-the-radar smaller, still exclusive parfumeries that take the time to fix you up with a scent that’s uniquely you. Or help you choose a one-of-a-kind gift. And when you finally settle on The One that will endear you to your loves and loved ones' memories forever, as perfumes tend to do, don't forget to say, "Parfumez-moi!" - BPJ

 

  

Worth discovering:

 

Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque

Christian Louis Parfums

18 Place des Vosges 75004

 

 Frédéric Malle


37 rue de Grenelle 75007 

 

Jovoy Parfumier
4 rue de Castiglione 75001
 
Serge Lutens
142 Galerie de Valois 75001

 Annick Goutal

12 Place Saint Sulpice 75006

 

L'Artisan Parfumeur

32 rue du Bourg Tibourg 75004

 

Marie-Antoinette

5 rue d'Ormesson 75004

 

Discover the secrets of perfume making:

 

The Alchemist Atelier

36 rue Étienne Marcel 75002

 

Create your own perfume:

 

Le Studio des Parfums

23 rue du Bourg Tibourg 75004

En face

A sculpture on a table of accessories at a concept boutique on the Right Bank.

L'Éclaireur

40 rue de Sévigné 75003

Holiday shopping

Le Bon Marché's Dior window display.

[Bring your passport if spending 176 euros or more at any one store on same day for airport de-taxe refund of up to 15%, even on items on sale]

Christmas present

 

Holiday spirit still going strong at Hermès, Saint Germain.

Hermès

17 rue de Sèvres 75006

 

Winter 2018 soldes January 10 to February 20

Rue Barbette

A display of off-the-radar designer bags on the corner of rue Barbette.

Jamin Puech
68 rue Vieille-du-Temple 75003 

Simple taste

Jeff Koons' Vincent Van Gogh bag on display at Louis Vuitton Saint Germain.

I have the simplest taste.

I am always satisfied with the best.

Oscar Wilde

Please don't drop

A mother-of-pearl clutch bag glimmers from its perch in a Saint-Germain boutique window.

Russian dolls

A window in a Left Bank shop displays the contents of an enormous traditional Matryoshka doll.

Spring trend

Thick-soled sports shoes, knee-length skirts and denim jackets in many variations in shop windows and on the streets.

Bag and glove

Hermès' signature orange is incorporated into this winter bag and matching gloves.

24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré 75008

Window masks

A small designer boutique creatively uses cutout masks, pom poms, scarves and hats as faces for its displays.