Shell game

Mussels and prawns with homemade aïoli and chilled white wine, en confinement.

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In Paris, most of our fish and shellfish arrives fresh daily from the rich waters of Brittany, which is not that far away. And almost always, giant gambas from Madagascar, Alaskan king crab and salmon along with other fishy imports comfortably share space on the fishmonger's counter. As with fruits and vegetables, some seasons are better than others (case in point: oysters) and right now we are on the cusp of the moules (mussels) season. Reports that restaurants, brasseries, bistros, cafés and other establishments that make up a huge part of the demand are still closed, creating a surplus, translate into bargains at local poissonières. So yesterday, grabbing my basket early and armed with my attestation de déplacement pour effectuer des achats de première nécessité (in short, documentation stating that my reason for being outside is to buy life/death items only), I ventured to a local poissonnerie to see what I could find. And I found lots. - BPJ

Clean air

View of the city and Eiffel Tower from atop the butte Montmartre.

Santé!

"Santé!" (to your health...), the standard toast in French, has never seemed so apt.

Above: setting up for Sunday night's multi-time-zone zoom session when everyone raised a glass

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The grissini is Mario Fongo's whole wheat hand-rolled grissini integrali at Eataly Paris (online), many Italian specialty shops, at La Grande Épicerie and other épiceries. Call first.

Quiet fête

Place Marcel Aymé three weeks ago.

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Today is Labor Day, La Fête du Travail, in France.

- Traditional muguets can be found at florists, grocery stores and on many street corners -

Cross my heart

A man holds a crucifix at the foot of the steps of the Basilica.

Not yet

Empty terrace of a usually lively Montmartre café.

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Specifics for the upcoming May 11th déconfinement in France have been announced and include wearing masks on all public transportation and continuing with the usual precautions (social distancing, masks, regular hand washing etc.). Markets will re-open (to be decided by regional mayors and préfets), travel within 100 kilometers will be permitted, and the famous attestation won't be required. The "most vulnerable" - ages 65 + as well as those with pre-existing conditions such as diabetes, upper respiratory and cardiovascular issues and what's become the most significant group at risk, the overweight / obese - are being urged to continue with present lockdown rules as much as possible. - BPJ

As yet no firm date has been decided for the re-opening of cafés and restaurants.

Italian night

Raymond: We have pepperoni pizza for dinner Monday nights.
Susanna: Pizza? You get pizza in an institution?
Raymond: Monday night is Italian night!

From Rain Man (1988)

 

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During the lockdown we've made Monday night Italian night, but instead of pepperoni pizza, this week it was brown rice mushroom risotto using scotch whisky in the place of white wine. - BPJ

 

Recipe May newsletter