Weather Wednesday

Carried away on a breeze.

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Once again the Paris forecast is for highs around 35 - 36°C (or more) this coming week. Coastal areas in Brittany, Normandy, and the Charentes (Atlantic coast) are excellent choices to flee to, not that far, and, thanks to sea breezes and the moderating influence of the Atlantic, northern and western coasts typically stay 5 - 10°C+ cooler, especially right by the sea.

 

 Having spent much time in Brittany, here are my top picks for breezy escapes in the region, with most destinations accessible 2 - 4 hour direct or simple-connection high-speed trains (TGV). The beaches, towns, and activities make for relaxed coastal getaways with walks, seafood, and sightseeing. Or simply pack the laptop and get in some scenic teletravail (working remotely) between sea views and moules frites - now in season, especially Brittany’s famous rope-grown bouchot mussels, including those from the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel:

 

 Dinard & Surrounds. Visit Plage de l'Écluse (main beach with iconic huts) and coastal sentier (path) walks

Finistère West Coast (e.g. Brest, Crozon Peninsula, Pointe du Raz)

Saint-Malo and Emerald Coast (Côte d'Émeraude)

 Quiberon Peninsula (southern Brittany)

 Île de Batz or Ouessant (Ushant)

 Erquy or Cap Fréhel 

 

- Stick as close to the coast as possible for maximum breeze benefit

- Keep in mind that trains fill up in summer - check SNCF Connect soon. Consider a 1 - 2 week regional pass if doing multiple stops

 - Expect variable weather (possible showers), but milder than inland

- Pack layers, sunscreen, and rain gear 

- Head farther west like Brest (Brittany) for even more Atlantic moderation 

Enjoy. And maybe, see you there! - BPJ

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JULY 23 - 26

Jazz Fesstival on banks of the Aulne

Chateauneuf-du-Faou - Finistère

Central Brittany

Info/Tickets 

   

JULY 26 - 30

Jazz at the Lighthouse 

 Phare de Baleine

Ile de Ré 

Info/Tickets 

 

Moules Monday

Monday's plat du jour:

Moules de Bouchot (mussels grown on wooden poles in the sea) fresh from Brittany in a creamy Sauce au Bleu with what else... frites.

Moules Monday

 

A waiter balances marmites filled with steamed mussels, accompanied by frites.

 (click to enlarge)

Moules Monday

 

Moules on the menu:

 

Moules frites on a sunny terrace preceded by refreshing starters, below.

 

 

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Lunch in Paris is a pleasurable and often spontaneous experience with café terraces packed with happy diners in nice weather. It's a welcome daily break that means sitting down to enjoy - no rushing, no seatings with time limits, and rarely are reservations necessary, unless one's heart is set on finding a place out of the sun or *that table* in a private corner. Most of the time, again, at lunchtime, you can simply walk in and make your presence known. The daily lunch formule is usually good value and consists of a starter (entrée), main dish (plat) and dessert, or a combo of just two (entrée + plat or plat + dessert): look for it on the ardoise chalkboard or on the last page of the menu. All over France lunchtime starts around 12:30 with last orders taken by 2:30 PM when kitchens close, but sometimes, lingering is encouraged. Thankfully, waiters won't dote or hover, considered intrusive, but they will quickly come to your aid if but signaled by holding up a forefinger. - BPJ

Moules Monday

A cold Pelforth blonde washes down moules frites on a warm July afternoon.

Paris by the sea #5

The end of the île.

 

Above: a stone pier ends in the sea; marmites of ultra fresh moules and prawn cocktails; view from our table

Below: interconnected courtyards of hotel; last breakfast before heading home

Shell game

Mussels and prawns with homemade aïoli and chilled white wine, en confinement.

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In Paris, most of our fish and shellfish arrives fresh daily from the rich waters of Brittany, which is not that far away. And almost always, giant gambas from Madagascar, Alaskan king crab and salmon along with other fishy imports comfortably share space on the fishmonger's counter. As with fruits and vegetables, some seasons are better than others (case in point: oysters) and right now we are on the cusp of the moules (mussels) season. Reports that restaurants, brasseries, bistros, cafés and other establishments that make up a huge part of the demand are still closed, creating a surplus, translate into bargains at local poissonières. So yesterday, grabbing my basket early and armed with my attestation de déplacement pour effectuer des achats de première nécessité (in short, documentation stating that my reason for being outside is to buy life/death items only), I ventured to a local poissonnerie to see what I could find. And I found lots. - BPJ