Mimosa Monday

 Winner - World Championship Egg Mayonnaise 2026

 

Above: each one a dainty mouthful 

  

***

 

Soon after learning that Mathieu Renucci, passionate chef-patron who revived the historic 1921 bistro Au Rêve in Montmartre, and co-creator Yves Séné had recently won the 7th edition of the Championnat du Monde de l'Œuf Mayonnaise - World Egg Mayonnaise (sometimes mistaken as Oeuf Mimosa, the less-fussy French cousin of the American deviled egg that features sieved yolk "petals" on top) Championship - I knew I had to try it. This quirky contest is run by the Association de Sauvegarde de l'Œuf Mayonnaise (ASOM), a group whose noble (and slightly tongue-in-cheek) mission is to safeguard this endangered French entrée classic that has, sadly, been quietly disappearing from bistro menus. 

 

At just 9 euros, three modest snowy halves arrived on a plate cloaked in a silky house-made mayo, each concealing a medallion of leeks vinaigrette beneath, each crowned with a haughty "hat," a tiny crouton perched at a jaunty angle. As applause erupted from adjacent tables, it was one of those perfect, light-hearted Parisian moments that felt like a scene from a movie. And while the portion was small, we had to admit it was big on flavor. When we looked up, more of the prize-winning oeufs had arrived and everyone was eagerly sampling from each other’s plates. A prix well-deserved. - BPJ

 

Au Rêve

89 rue Caulaincourt 75018

 

Bistro bliss

As Christmas approaches the whirl of dining out with family / friends has begun.

On this night, simple yet warming classic French fare par excellence at a local Michelin bistrot that's become a favorite.

 

Above: fresh sea bream atop Tarbais beans; duck in two servings; rognons de veau (veal kidneys - not shown); cochon de lait w/purée

 

Below: two of our entrées (fricassée de girolles; ballotine de foie gras de canard maison); settling on a wine

 

 

 Remerciements: 

Chef de cuisine André le Letty, former sous-chef at La Tour d'Argent

 

Le Bistrot Du Maquis

 69 rue Caulaincourt 75018

 

 

Red and white

When I was writing for USA Today a tidbit of advice I'd pass on to readers was, "Try to avoid those cute Paris bistrots with red and white checked tablecloths. As tempting as they are, they're usually tourist bait." But this Left Bank jewel that's been serving up French classics to a devoted clientèle since 1970 is an exception. - BPJ

 Above: chef Rémi Lebron's "legendary" (quoting his menu) Bœuf Bourguignon w/grilled marrow bones warm up a chilly autumn evening

 Chez Fernand

13 rue Guisarde 75006

 

French onion soup

A simple workers' after-market soup that utilizes throwaways (stale bread, cheese, onions) and meat stock, soupe à l'oignon traveled outside the French border to become a gourmet sensation.

Au bout de soufflé

Few pleasures compare to tucking into a soaring soufflé, fresh from the oven.

Above: savory classic cheese; basil, almonds, jambon de bayonne

 

Le Récamier

4 rue Récamier 75007