Fête des Pères

Today is Father's Day - To the best father.

- In Loving Memory -

Weekend out

Parks and gardens re-open as Parisians venture out.

Above: at the Jardin du Luxembourg

Love in the time of corona

 

 

Boulangeries remain open.

 
***

As countries across the globe restrict travel, close borders and put cities and towns on lockdown, most everyone will be huddling indoors for what might become a long haul, perhaps as much as four months. France is starting with two weeks, with a wait-and-see clause in reserve.

Already, on an ecological level, we are seeing what might be: satellite images show large metropolitan areas from Wuhan to New York spookily pollution free. In Venice, some claim that waters are running clear as fish return to canals, something not seen for decades. Our Montmartre apartment, thankfully on a side-street with a great choice of food shopping (not to mention a Thai takeaway) just downstairs, overlooks a quiet interior courtyard with trees, and while we usually wake up to birdsong, this morning sounded like we are living in the countryside.

For couples and families, being confined together brings its own challenges. At the end of last week, as glasses clinked one last time at our now closed local café, ideas were shared of what to do and what not to do, in the hopes that when this all blows over, we will all be better off for it.

What came up again and again: respecting each other's space - harder to do than it sounds. Obvious culprits: leaving a mess for others to clean up; high noise volume - whether loud phone chats, late night TV, Pavarotti belting out "Nessun Dorma" or thumping rap tunes with windows flung wide. We agreed that lots more cooking at home will be inevitable, and that immune-boosting soups and cutting out sugar, which lowers the immune system, made sense. It turns out that for now, meal deliveries will stay in operation - Deliveroo, Frichti, UberEats... - and will be left at the door to respect distancing.

Before/after-the-lockdown photos of thin-to-obese have been making rounds, but as France is not (yet) a country of fridge-raiding and pancakes and popcorn, this remains to be seen.

Habits to acquire: removing shoes upon entering the home, using cleaning products that disinfect surfaces, door handles, on/off switches, daily; keeping a gel soap within easy reach of sinks and of course washing hands (think Lady Macbeth) but surgeon-like, farther up the arm. Even in buildings with cleaning crews we talked about a need to take individual responsibility for wiping down banisters, elevator buttons, street door handles. It's believed that the virus clings to metal and glass surfaces - change, cellphone screens, elevators, supermarket checkout counters - for hours. And to clothing.

We see this as a chance to catch up on much - side-lined reading, projects, films (providers such as Orange are offering its customers free unlimited movies til the end of March), organizing closets, shelves and neglected caves - as well as to re-connect, cuddle, get into parlor games (chess anyone?), long talks, soul-searching. 

 

A post on Instagram said, "Your grandparents were called to war. You're being called to your couch. You can do this!" Happy hunkering. - BPJ

 

A Christmas castle: Vaux-le-Vicomte

Due to ongoing train and public transportation strikes I am re-posting this w/an edit of getting there by car (below)

The stage was set with green so lush, and by a hundred torches lit; Once curtain raised, all Vaux was hushed. All strove to please this King of ours: Music, cascades, lanterns and stars.... - Jean de la Fontaine, French poet and writer, on the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte (1661)

(click photos to enlarge)

A unique experience of Christmas. An awe-inspiring setting.

Though closed in winter, as it does each Christmas, spectacular Château De Vaux-le-Vicomte has opened its doors from November 23, 2019 til January 5, 2020, transformed into a glittering Land of Enchantment. This year’s theme: thousands of colors and lights, including a magical evening light show set to music on the castle’s façade that rivals Paris’ Atelier des Lumières.

Master Interior Designer Eric Naudin and one of the chateau’s owners and current resident Count Patrice de Voguë explained to our small group that planning and executing an extravaganza of this scope can easily take up half a year.

Room after room elicited gasps: sparkles, glitter, twinkles, lights, garlands, baubles and bows. Around almost every corner a crackling fire contributed to the warmth and ambiance. There were whiffs of spices and chocolate (in the Cabinet des Jeux a Christmas tree decorated with unique pieces made of chocolate by the Comptoir du Cacao). Vintage toys, Christmas trees galore, enormous gingerbread cookies that appear as if they will spring to life and, on a rack in the front foyer, costumes for hire for children (and young-at-heart grown-ups) who can, for a day, pretend they are princes and princesses, free to roam the castle and grounds.

This year's masterpiece is undoubtedly the main room of the chateau, the Grand Salon. Upon entering, we were stopped in our tracks as we beheld the gilded multi-level Nativity scene, and every level had moving parts.

A charming touch of horse-drawn carriages in the sumptuous gardens signed André Le Nôtre adds to the festivities, and walking the grounds and pathways of the castle’s adjoining wood is a journey into Wonderland. - BPJ

Book online:
Château De Vaux-le-Vicomte

- Driving (from Paris): 54 minutes via A4 and N104
- By train (from Paris): 35 minutes from Gare de l’Est to Verneuil-l’Étang where (free) shuttles await to transport you back in time

- Carriage rides (small charge)
- Carriage Museum
- Walks in the decorated gardens (weather permitting)
- Surprise gift to children under 6; ages 7-17 a gingerbread cookie by Maison Fossier
- Costume rental for adults / children. Free of charge on weekdays from November 27 to December 21
- Each child who brings a book to the Red Cross stall at the estate’s entrance gets a ribbon to tie on a Christmas tree and make a wish. Books are collected by the French Red Cross and are wrapped and given to underprivileged children and their families who will be invited to the castle

Every day from January 2 to 5, 2020, celebration of Les Rois (Three Kings Day): a galette des rois made by the château pastry chef will be awarded to whoever finds the giant squirrel charm hidden in the gardens.... (écureuil is French for squirrel; Relais de l'Écureuil is the name of the château's wonderful outdoor restaurant)