When my parents lived in Vienna, a city that rivals Paris for elegant coffee houses and coffee, the good part of many an afternoon would be spent beneath chandeliers indulging in hot chocolate, Kaffee - usually followed by the question: "Mit Schlag?" ("With whipped cream?") - and decadent pastries.
Above: Café Viennois at PAUL's tea room in Saint-Germain-des-Prés on a cold November evening

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