A face on the street

Graffiti on a wall where two streets meet in Montmartre.

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Every time I'm on the rue Gabrielle I can't help but think of a lovely young American, a writer, who settled in Paris and we became co-writers/editors on an online franco-zine. We met when she'd had a close call with the infamous administration française and contacted me, but in no time at all she was off and running and didn't need me at all. The next time I saw her she'd gotten herself ensconced on the rue Gabrielle with two fluffy cats in the most charming sort of atelier with sweeping romantic rooftop views. She made a mean cup of tea and we'd swap great laughs and great stories. Her self-effacing enthusiasm and bottomless creativity was refreshing to be around and as contagious as the coronavirus, and made me (almost) consider taking a break from Paris to re-discover the land of frozen margaritas.

Gabrielle, if you're reading this, wherever you are, thank you for those unforgettable moments and equally unforgettable cups of tea. - BPJ

A summer soupe

My recent post on gazpacho andaluz inspired another cold soup, this one a personal rendition of the (some say American-invented) classic, Vichyssoise.

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Recipe in June newsletter

The name of the rose

A wonderful small florist on rue Lepic sells only roses.

School rules

Schools in France reluctantly re-opened on May 11 and so far, into the third week, all seems to be going well.

Above: posted outside elementary schools, "Gestures to retain. To protect me and to protect others!"

Oasis

Marcel's on Avenue Junot has become a new daily stop, just up the stairs from our usual hangout.

Gazpacho in heat

Above: a cobbled street in Cadaqués, Spain leads to a small market square on the bay; gazpacho andaluz w/traditional toppings

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Looking back:

As temperatures climb towards June our Paris kitchen has been the scene of an outpouring of gazpacho, that queen of the cold soups from Spain that magically appears each summer as a primer plato, entrada or even refreshing drink in almost every restaurant, tapas bar and café from the Costa Brava to the Costa del Sol. Sometimes served with ice cubes bobbing on its surface, this simple and refreshing sopa made its way to France and now, as in Spain, it's a seasonal menu staple.

During my time in Barcelona and Cadaqués everyone I knew - including me - kept a freshly made supply cooling in the fridge. So when an industrial facsimile began showing up on supermarket shelves it didn't make sense: with a hand blender, gazpacho took almost as much time to make as it did to open a box and pour, faster than you can say “¡Hace calor!”

But mind you not just any gazpacho would do. All over Spain, at least, it had to be gazpacho andaluz from the sunny south. Less tomato and more cucumber meant a much lighter color than expected. When visiting Italian family in Rome in summer, I'd whip up a pitcherful in the late afternoon at the urging of my Tante Maria, an excellent cook who preferred hers with extra garlic. When I added a dash of cayenne pepper by accident, a version she called “Gestapo," she declared, “This replaces all of the minerals you lose in your sweat!” (She'd also insist that spaghetti al dente with nothing in it but grated parmesan and burro was a "complete food" containing "everything anyone would ever want" for optimum health).

Some prefer their gazpacho sieved until creamy smooth; others, like me, prefer texture. Either way, accompaniments of fried croûtons and assorted chopped raw veggies such as tomato, cucumber, onion and avocado add yet more structure and flavor. - BPJ

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Recipe in June newsletter

Street food

All over the Butte Montmartre small restaurants* have set out tables for not only takeaway meals but often coffee, a glass of wine and a friendly chat.

- Addresses in order of appearance below -

1) Marcel - 1 Villa Léandre 75018

2) Etsi - 23 rue Eugène Carrière 75018

3) Imagine - 105 rue Caulaincourt 75018

4) Au Virage Lepic - 61 rue Lepic 75018

* These are just 4 of many. Wander to find your favorite.