Above: viennoiseries, croissants au beurre (including raspberry croissants), at Bo&Mie
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Is it me or has there been a quiet evolution in the size of Paris croissants post-Covid?
Until 2021, croissants, especially from renowned bakeries like Laurent Duchêne and Des Gâteaux et du Pain, had been described as light, airy, even “dainty,” aligning with the traditional style that focused on layers of flakiness and a delicate balance between butter and dough.
Since a 1993 decree requiring butter croissants (croissants au beurre) to be straight, the only other contender was the cheaper crescent-shaped croissant normal that humbly took its place next to straight croissants on boulangerie shelves, hinting at margarine use.
But post 2021, particularly after the Covid lockdowns, a shape-shifting seems to have taken place: a trend toward "generous" croissants. Bakeries like Cédric Grolet, known for plump creations, gained prominence. Larger, richer croissants using more butter and dough began to appear, some suggesting to attract those in search of indulgence after lockdown austerity. And, as customers lined up, other bakers followed suit.
The 2025 Concours du Meilleur Croissant au Beurre results, with Basile Fourmont’s voluptuous winner, suggest a preference for fuller shapes, possibly up to 30% larger than their slimmer predecessors.
For some, to witness something so basic to French culture being turned into an inflated pod is disconcerting. For others, it’s a welcome novelty. Only time will tell if puffier versions are here to stay, and if body shapes will follow. - BPJ
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