Wine Wednesday

 

 

An apéro spread to accompany the wine, not the other way around.

 

Table Tuesday

 

 

Early morning lineup of tables on Place du Tertre before the throngs arrive.

Midnight Monday

 

 

Le Lapin Agile, at night.

 

***

 

It's midnight in Paris, and had this been the 1860s, this quiet Montmartre venue, once a lively cabaret, would be in full swing, with patrons reveling both inside and out. When it first opened its name was Au rendez-vous des voleurs ("Where Thieves Meet”) and then, about 20 years later, its walls adorned with portraits of notorious murderers, earned it the name Cabaret des Assassins. Legend has it that this name arose after a gang of robbers broke in, killing the owner's son during a failed robbery.

 

Was Pablo Picasso a patron, as the title of Steve Martin's play, "Picasso at the Lapin Agile" suggests? An oil-on-canvas by Picasso (Au Lapin Agile) dated 1905 and painted during his Rose Period, includes a contemplative self-portrait of young Pablo - he's the harlequin - who was a regular. The work fetched $40.7 million at Sotheby’s on November 27, 1989, making it one of the priciest paintings ever. By 1905, the Lapin Agile’s owner, Frédéric Gérard, tapped the 25-year-old artist to paint something for the club’s walls, offering him free meals and drinks as payment. Picasso, never one to say no to a deal, whipped up Au Lapin Agile - and the rest is art history. - BPJ

Sunsplashed Sunday

 The old Marais district is the place to head on a Sunday, especially on a beautiful spring day.

Above: from a café on Place des Vosges

Sit-down Saturday

 Sous le Chapeau (Under the Hat) at the Institut Liszt Paris / Hungarian Cultural Center.

 *** 

A life-sized bronze created by Hungarian sculptor Márta Lesenyei, known for her expressive works that often depict human figures in contemplative or emotional poses.

Floral Friday

 A flowering tree at the Jardin des Plantes.

 

Rain shower

  

The sun emerges and tabletops glisten in an ancient passage where time slows down with every drop.

 

Travel Tuesday

 

Shirts, jeans and a cheeky pair of red undies sway in the breeze while a potted plant seems to cheer them on. 

 

***

 

In many narrow village streets all over Italy stone buildings lean in for a gossip, as laundry hangs like a vibrant parade of flags. Below, a parked car waits patiently, resigned to a lifetime of dodging stray socks. But most are in agreement: fresh-air-dried washing is always superior to machine-dried, which explains those silk shirts flapping from the balconies of sumptuous palazzi that dot the Italian countryside.

 

As a golden sunset casts a warm glow, a neighbor wonders, isn't that red pair theirs, and could this trigger a new (laundry-inspired) friendship, or even romance? - BPJ

 

***

 

3 hours (or less) from Paris

 

PARIS - ROME

 

Direct flights (2 hrs) - 6 times daily

 

 

Macaron Monday

  

A macaron a day keeps the doldrums at bay.

 

***

 

 The cheerful macaron, with its Italian origins, has become a symbol of Paris. Though seemingly in almost every Parisian pâtisserie on almost every corner, not all macarons - not "macaroons" please - are created equal. These two-bite wonders with their vibrant hues and crisp chewy texture are, in fact, tiny almond meringue sandwiches, each filled with a silky ganache or creamy buttercream, a delicate dance of texture and flavor. 

For my tastes Pierre Hermé still leads the pack: he goes easy on the sugar and weaves creative and at times eyebrow-raising fillings that evoke Marie-Antoinette closing her eyes to daintily savor a slow nibble rather than a chomp. When choosing, keep in mind that the best macarons balance sweetness with sophistication, and will leave you craving just one more. - BPJ

 

 

Pierre Hermé

Montmartre boutique

27 rue des Abbesses 75018

 

 

 

 

Easter Sunset

 

 

 Joyeuses Pâques 2025

 

🐣

 

Floral Friday

 

Vibrant bouquets brighten a historic covered passage.

Morning meditation

 Quiet time as the city of Paris sprawls below in the distance.

***

Atop Montmartre in the tender embrace of dawn, Paris stirs. Cobblestones gleam with the first light's kiss and the air, crisp and full of promise, carries the scent of blooming trees as the city stretches beneath a sapphire sky. An empty bench to pause and reflect, a lone streetlamp and shuttered storefronts brace in anticipation of the day's bustle. In the distance, Paris shimmers, a silent witness to its awakening streets. - BPJ

 

Window Wednesday

 

 

From one window to another:

A small café across from a bookshop on a 19th century covered passage.

 

Treeful Tuesday

Spring in bloom in the Latin Quarter.

 

Mirror Monday

 

 

A mirror in a café near the Louvre reflects its royal roots, an ancient palace turned into a museum.

 

***

 

This mirror is a tribute to Jean-Baptiste Poquelin, a.k.a. Molière, the 17th-century French funnyman who had King Louis XIV in stitches at the Palais du Louvre, just a short strut from his troupe’s base at the Comédie-Française. With his razor-sharp wit, Molière’s plays like Tartuffe and The Misanthrope skewered the pompous hypocrites and fawning courtiers buzzing around the Sun King’s court, leaving audiences roaring and, legend has it, the king himself slapping his royal knee. It seems Molière was a master at poking fun without ever turning his quill on Louis. The Comédie-Française was the perfect stage for Molière’s troupe to dazzle audiences, cementing his reputation as the king’s go-to entertainer, a comedic genius who could roast the elite while staying in royal favor.

The theater’s proximity to the Louvre made it easy for Molière to stage private shows at the palace when summoned. Historical records, like those of the court’s Menus Plaisirs (royal entertainment accounts), confirm Molière’s frequent performances at the Louvre’s grand halls or Versailles’ gardens, tailored to Louis’ tastes, while public shows stayed at the Comédie-Française for the broader audience.

Molière’s favor with Louis is well-documented: he was granted a royal pension and protection from critics, suggesting the king relished the playwright’s knack for exposing sycophants without crossing the line. The proximity of the Comédie-Française to the Louvre (still true today) made it a breeze for Molière to pop over and keep the Sun King chuckling, ensuring his troupe thrived under royal patronage. - BPJ

 

 

Sunday brunch

 

A café-restaurant prepares to open as the modern Bastille Opera looks on from behind.

 

Sit-down Saturday

 

Students mainly from the nearby Sorbonne University take in some sunshine.

 

Above: Le Panthéon

 

French toast Friday

 

Pain Perdu, the original French Toast, topped with house French vanilla ice cream and caramel-butter sauce, in the Latin Quarter at tea time.

 

TRAM Café and Librairie

47 rue de la Montagne-Ste-Geneviève 75005

 

 

Throwback Thursday

 Just south of the French border a poetic Spanish village where the wind whispers secrets and dreams are cradled in coves.

Above: a cobbled street among a maze of cobbled streets; view from a balcony

Below: view from a private island

 3 hours (or less) from Paris

Cadaqués, Spain

 

Recommended: fly/drive

 

PARIS - PERPIGNAN (France)
Direct flight (1-hr 30 min) + car rental (1-hr 20 min drive to Cadaqués)

 

PARIS - GIRONA

Direct flight (1-hr 45 min) + car rental (1-hr drive to Cadaqués)

 

Wedding Wednesday

 At Paris' oldest church bells ring and love is in the air.
 

Trop tard Tuesday

 

A small crêperie closes for the night.

 

Monday morning

 

Morning light, Montmartre.

Sit-down Sunday

Your corner is ready.

Saturday sweethearts

 

Love on a wall.

 

 

Floral Friday

 

A burst of spring beneath the elegant dome of the Institut de France.

 

Art walk

 

 

Gallery hop through Saint-Germain-des-Prés and immerse yourself in timeless charm.

And maybe a spot of champagne.

When: this evening

Starts: around 6:30 PM

Where: rue des Beaux-Arts, rue de Seine, and side streets

 - Meet the artists -

 

Window Wednesday

  

View from inside onto the terrace of a Left Bank café.

 

 

Treeful Tuesday

Le Grand Palais seen through branches and a gnarly trunk.