Weather Wednesday

Carried away on a breeze.

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Once again the Paris forecast is for highs around 35 - 36°C (or more) this coming week. Coastal areas in Brittany, Normandy, and the Charentes (Atlantic coast) are excellent choices to flee to, not that far, and, thanks to sea breezes and the moderating influence of the Atlantic, northern and western coasts typically stay 5 - 10°C+ cooler, especially right by the sea.

 

 Having spent much time in Brittany, here are my top picks for breezy escapes in the region, with most destinations accessible 2 - 4 hour direct or simple-connection high-speed trains (TGV). The beaches, towns, and activities make for relaxed coastal getaways with walks, seafood, and sightseeing. Or simply pack the laptop and get in some scenic teletravail (working remotely) between sea views and moules frites - now in season, especially Brittany’s famous rope-grown bouchot mussels, including those from the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel:

 

 Dinard & Surrounds. Visit Plage de l'Écluse (main beach with iconic huts) and coastal sentier (path) walks

Finistère West Coast (e.g. Brest, Crozon Peninsula, Pointe du Raz)

Saint-Malo and Emerald Coast (Côte d'Émeraude)

 Quiberon Peninsula (southern Brittany)

 Île de Batz or Ouessant (Ushant)

 Erquy or Cap Fréhel 

 

- Stick as close to the coast as possible for Maximum Breeze Benefit (MBB)

- Keep in mind that trains fill up in summer - check SNCF Connect soon. Consider a 1 - 2 week regional pass if doing multiple stops

 - Expect variable weather (possible showers), but milder than inland

- Pack layers, sunscreen, and rain gear 

- Head farther west like Brest (Brittany) for even more Atlantic moderation 

Enjoy. And maybe, see you there! - BPJ

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JULY 23 - 26

Jazz Fesstival on banks of the Aulne

Chateauneuf-du-Faou - Finistère

Central Brittany

Info/Tickets 

   

JULY 26 - 30

Jazz at the Lighthouse 

 Phare de Baleine

Ile de Ré 

Info/Tickets 

 

Festival Friday

  

All this weekend:

 

Live music, dancing, street food, wine...

 

 Place des Abbesses 

 Montmartre 

 

Seafood lovers 

 Fête de la coquille Saint-Jacques and Saint Vincent 2026

 

January 24 - 25 

 

INFO

 

 

Mocha Monday

 A café crème, a pot of tea, a drizzly morning, a quiet port. 

 

Paris - La Rochelle +

3 hours (or less) from Paris

  

Throwback Thursday

 

 

The call of the sea.

 

 Above: evening and night walks in serene coastal villages

Below: sunsets and silhouettes

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Brittany / Normandy / Poitou-Charentes

 3 hours (or less) from Paris

 

 

There’s nothing quite like trading Paris' crowded boulevards for a few days of a rejuvenating seaside escapade. As autumn’s crisp embrace settles over the city, the call of the sea and windswept freedom of France's enchanting North Atlantic seashores beckon. Temperatures dip to invigorating levels. Coastlines unfold rugged cliffs kissed by frothy waves, quaint harbors glow under Golden Hour light, and beaches stretch toward the horizon.

 Unlike those once secret coastal destinations that have become overrun by post-Covid throngs emboldened by Instagram selfies, there are still retreats that remain unspoiled by the clamor of travel influencers in designer flip-flops and cheeseburger-seeking TikTokers waiting to be discovered.

There’s a special alchemy in joining locals gathering at sunset over apéros and oysters and watching the sky change from lavender to amber. These moments, steeped in laughter and the warmth of shared stories, are what pull us back again and again. - BPJ  

***

Main points of arrival by train from Paris (+ car rental upon arrival) for quicker seaside village access:

 Brittany
Saint-Malo and Brest for their respective coastal regions (north-east and west)
Farther: Rennes

Normandy
Caen and Le Havre generally faster to access most seaside villages due to their proximity to the coast
Farther: Rouen

Poitou-Charentes / renamed Nouvelle-Aquitaine
La Rochelle for quick seaside village access due to its coastal proximity
Farther: Rochefort, Poitiers, Niort

 

 

Monday mouthful

 

Delectable crêpes to start off the week.

 

Above: galettes (savory sarrasin buckwheat flour crêpes) accompanied by crisp Brittany pear cider

 

Breizh Café 

Paris

"La crêpe autrement"

 

 

 

 

Travel Tuesday

 

Atmospheric villages and towns on the French Atlantic coast are easily reachable from Paris.

 

 

 

 

 

 ***

 

Dotted with charming port villages and islands, the Poitou-Charentes and Brittany regions make for kicked-back and beautiful seaside séjours not that far from Paris. Bursting with quality restaurants (many specialize in local oysters, seafood, and sharing apéritifs), relaxed (or bustling) cafés, open-air markets and kilometers of sandy beaches for those reflective sunset walks by the sea, there is something for everyone. Though driving from Paris is an option, taking a high-speed train from Gare Montparnasse then renting a car upon arrival has become increasingly popular. Frequent daily trains and affordable tickets and car rentals make a multi-day escape convenient and appealing. Enjoy! - BPJ

 

 Below: a list of notable destinations accessible by train from Gare Montparnasse, often with a rental car or local transportation at the station for the final leg

 

1. La Rochelle
   • Train Details: Direct TGV from Gare Montparnasse (approx. 2.5–3 hours).
   • Highlights: A historic port city with vibrant markets, medieval towers, and access to nearby Île de Ré, a picturesque island known for its beaches, cycling paths, and quaint villages like Saint-Martin-de-Ré and La Flotte, where busy bistros contrast with tranquil havens where you can linger over local Pineau des Charantes in peace.
     
   • Car Rental: Available at La Rochelle station for exploring nearby islands or coastal areas.
2. Saint-Malo
   • Train Details: TGV to Rennes (approx. 2 hours), then a regional train to Saint-Malo (45 minutes).
   • Highlights: A fortified coastal town in Brittany with dramatic tides, historic ramparts, and access to nearby islands like Jersey or Guernsey.
   • Car Rental: Available in Rennes or Saint-Malo for exploring the rugged Breton coast.
3. Quiberon
   • Train Details: TGV to Auray (approx. 2.5–3 hours), then a local train or 20-minute drive to Quiberon.
   • Highlights: A scenic peninsula in Brittany with wild beaches, coastal trails, and access to Belle-Île-en-Mer, a stunning island with charming villages and cliffs.
   • Car Rental: Available at Auray for easier access to the peninsula and ferries.
4. Biarritz
   • Train Details: Direct TGV from Gare Montparnasse (approx. 4–4.5 hours).
   • Highlights: A glamorous surf town in the French Basque Country with iconic beaches, upscale dining, and proximity to charming villages like Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
   • Car Rental: Available at Biarritz station for exploring the Basque coast.
5. Nantes (for nearby coastal areas)
   • Train Details: Direct TGV from Gare Montparnasse (approx. 2 hours).
   • Highlights: While Nantes itself is inland, it’s a jumping-off point to nearby coastal destinations like La Baule, a chic resort town with a long sandy beach (45-minute drive from Nantes).
   • Car Rental: Available at Nantes station for coastal day trips.

Also:

• Train Tickets: Book via SNCF (www.sncf-connect.com) (www.sncf-connect.com) for the best rates, especially for TGVs, which can be affordable if reserved early.
• Car Rentals: Most stations (e.g., La Rochelle, Biarritz, Rennes) have rental agencies like Europcar, Hertz, or Avis. Booking in advance is essential.
• Travel Tip: For islands like Île de Ré or Belle-Île, ferries or local buses complement car rentals for seamless exploration.
   
   

  

  
  
  
  
  

Moules Monday

Monday's plat du jour:

Moules de Bouchot (mussels grown on wooden poles in the sea) fresh from Brittany in a creamy Sauce au Bleu with what else... frites.

Sweet Saturday

 

Salted butter caramels piled high in a shop window off Place du Tertre.

 

Crêpe craze

A crêpe in the afternoon.

Above: dessert crêpe filled w/roasted apples and topped w/salted butter caramel, vanilla ice cream maison, Chantilly whipped cream and on the side, a Calvados shooter

Coquillages

Seafood lovers will be heading to Montmartre's annual Fête de la Coquille all weekend as Paris celebrates shellfish in all its forms.

Above: a Sunday lunch

 

***

Merci Marcel 

 

 

January 26 - 27, 2019

More info

Crêpes on a roll

Rolled-up buckwheat crêpe appetizers with different fillings: chorizo, camembert, goat cheese, smoked salmon; tarama dip; chilled brut apple cider from Brittany.

Breizh Café

"La crêpe autrement"

1 rue de l'Odéon 75006

Crêpes are always a good idea

 

Buttery crêpes de froment - topped with fresh rhubarb compote, salted butter caramel and house vanilla ice cream and melted dark chocolate - taste better accompanied by crisp apple cider from Brittany.

Breizh Café
1 rue de l'Odéon 75006

Food fair

La Fête de la Coquille

All this weekend: live music, dancing, street food, wine....

Posting from:
Place des Abbesses 75018

Above: Aussie tourists uncork a bottle to go with their oysters; strolling bagpipers from Edinburgh; farm apple cider; crêpes; onions sausages sandwiches

Half-shell heaven

Right now raw oysters shipped in fresh daily from Brittany are at almost every brasserie in Paris.

Oyster of the month

 

In France, even months without an "R" don't keep oysters at bay.

Above: ready-to-slurp Bélons at an along-the-Seine autumn food fest