23 May 2019

Red is for radish


Spring means radishes, and Paris market stalls are brimming.

Below: with homemade mayo, a twist on the classical French way of eating radishes (whole with salt, butter, and baguette); thinly sliced and fanned atop crab risotto




20 May 2019

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Honfleur


Honfleur, charming fishing village in Normandy and home to Impressionist Eugène Boudin.

Below: Honfleur's sprawling Saturday open-air market on Place Sainte-Catherine starts early; catching the full moon over the old port (click to enlarge)


By car: 2 1/2 hours via A13
By train: just under 3 hours from Gare Saint-Lazare; several trains per day - search for train (to Rouen) / drive options

[close enough to be a day trip from Paris; recommended as romantic weekend getaway]

Where to Eat: Honfleur
June newsletter

18 May 2019

Bourbon Sours


This no-frills drink, or rather its sibling, the Whiskey Sour, became my go-to in-flight cocktail years ago thanks to a sweet older English lady sitting next to me on my way from London to Arizona. She said she always had one "for luck" whenever she flew, and I thought it a great idea. You'll feel like you're flying after a couple of these.

Bar 228 Le Meurice Hôtel
Live jazz nightly 

17 May 2019

Chasing the blues


Live music adds to a weekend antiquing experience at the Marchés aux Puces in the north of Paris, just outside the péripherique.

Look for:

La Chope des Puces
(mostly gypsy jazz / jazz manouche, a style started by Romani guitarist Jean "Django" Reinhardt in Paris during the 1930s)
122 rue des Rosiers 93400 Saint-Ouen
Tel: 01 40 11 28 80

Chez Louisette
(songs of vieux Paris; blues, jazz, spontaneous dancing) 
136 avenue Michelet 93400 Saint-Ouen
- inside the Vernaison flea market -
Tel: 01 40 12 10 14     

Photo collage courtesy of Catherine M.

15 May 2019

Egg on his face


A small gallery in the 12th shows off-the-radar contemporary art.

Atelier du Génie
28 Passage du Génie 75012

14 May 2019

Pieds dans l'eau



Much to take in biking along the Canal de l'Ourcq.

Above: a stop for tea-and-cake on the veranda of an artsy two-story "house" right on the water, where every room is different

Below: a peek inside (click to enlarge); street art



  Le Pavillon des Canaux
39 Quai de la Loire 75019

12 May 2019

Mothers Days


N'oubliez pas:

This year Mother's Day in France is celebrated Sunday, May 26th.

- Happy Mothers Day U.S.A. -

11 May 2019

If music be the food of love...



Cold and rainy Paris?
Here are two fun ideas for the weekend that you won't want to miss:

Above: "Chicago The Musical" at the wonderful Mogador Theater (all songs in English)



Below: "Four days of dining, drinking, and live entertainment for food enthusiasts"

TASTE OF PARIS 2019
"Le Festival des Chefs"

 





10 May 2019

Paris-Brest


This version of the classical buttercream pastry is loaded with crushed hazelnuts.

Yann Couvreur Pâtisserie
23bis rue des Rosiers 75004

9 May 2019

Hanging out


Sweeping views over the city from a heavenly Montmartre apartment.

Above: sunset (click to enlarge); gin and tonics al fresco; yours truly (merci à C) on one of the balconies

7 May 2019

Terrace chic


May is time for terrace dining.

Above: a fountain, a cobbled courtyard, parasols, sparkly lights

Try: Maryland crab cakes; Maine lobster salad; grilled lamb chops with fava beans; beef carpaccio with horseradish

RALPH'S
173 Boulevard Saint-Germain 75006


4 May 2019

Going vegan


French cuisine is endlessly varied and this airy place at the foot of the Montmartre butte offers great value and healthy choices.

Above: creative veggie sharing planche for two; side salad of fennel, chick peas, walnuts and blue cheese

Below: mango dessert



Abattoir Végétal
61 rue Ramey 75018

***

May newsletter
Nouveautés



3 May 2019

Market muguets


May 1st is La Fête du Travail, Labor Day, when lilies of the valley or muguets are given to loved ones.

Above: a forest of muguets at an open-air market

Below: blooms for the lunch table; bright gariguette strawberries, back in season 




2 May 2019

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Amsterdam #2



Above: a floating tulip garden; a morning café créme on a quiet square; anyone for chess?

Below: no visit to Amsterdam is complete without feasting on rijsttafel (traditional Indonesian multi-dish "rice table"), sampling Dutch cheeses at a street market, or hopping on a bicycle... best way to get around


 

By air: several direct flights Paris - Amsterdam daily
Total flight time: 1 hour 20 minutes

By train: Thalys from Paris Gare du Nord - 27 trains per day
[shortest travel time: 3 hours 17 minutes direct into Amsterdam Centraal]

More in May newsletter

1 May 2019

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Amsterdam #1


Going Dutch:

 Though I'd been to "The Venice of the North" several times over the years, this visit was particularly magnifique.
 Invited by a dear friend, and with the weather on our side, we hit some of the best spots in the city, and revisited old ones, from museums and art exhibitions to restaurants, bars, markets, and more.



Below: canal and bridges from a boat