30 December 2015

29 December 2015

Marché Raspail

Open Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays when it's a marché biologique (organic), this Left Bank market goes on for blocks.

28 December 2015

Sign of the times

This year's holiday window display theme at Galeries Lafayette department store is all about the new Star Wars movie.

26 December 2015

Yule log

No Christmas table was complete without its Bûche de Noël, the traditional Yule Log dessert, and every bakery and pâtisserie was well stocked.

25 December 2015

Deck the windows

All over the city toy stores, like this one, stayed open late Christmas Eve anticipating last minute Père Noëls.

24 December 2015

Bagel on the block

New York style bagel shops have sprung up around Paris. Today's bagel at this one in Montmartre, "Christmas spices."

23 December 2015

Three kings

Life-sized figurines made of silk, satin and brocade decorate the courtyard of a luxury hotel.

22 December 2015

Christmas lights

As soon as it gets dark festive lights appear in corners, lining entire streets overhead.

21 December 2015


It's a strange sensation to walk down familiar streets and see photos of the dead; neighbors, familiar faces posted in doorways where they lived.

19 December 2015

18 December 2015

16 December 2015

Candy man

This corner sweets stall is a permanent fixture year round, rain or shine, on Boulevard Saint Germain near Odéon.

15 December 2015

14 December 2015


Big Tobacco is thriving as evidenced by the many brands on offer at any corner tabac, the most popular by far being Marlboro and not, as expected, Gauloises.

12 December 2015

Choux in

At La Maison du Chou flavored cream fillings are pumped into airy choux before your eyes using a pastry syringe.

10 December 2015

9 December 2015

Enfants Rouges

The Marché des Enfants Rouges covered market dates to the 1600's and is named for orphans dressed in red.

Above: florist at entryway

8 December 2015


The latest "smart car" is an efficient way to buzz through narrow city streets.

7 December 2015

5 December 2015

Saint Sulpice organ

The massive Cavaillé-Coll organ dominates the interior of the Church of Saint Sulpice.

4 December 2015

Un café noisette

This is the French version of Spain's café cortado, an espresso to which a drop of milk the size of a hazelnut (noisette) has been added.

3 December 2015

2 December 2015

Autumn in Montmartre #7

Montmartre often astonishes with quiet passageways lined by single family homes and artists' studios.

30 November 2015

27 November 2015

Autumn in Montmartre #3

Scattered leaves and a parked bicycle. It's early and below, in the distance, a boulangerie and café opens for business.

26 November 2015

Thanksgivings past

To past Thanksgivings and Thanksgivings yet to come, a very happy one, wherever you are.

Above: the table is set as fireplaces and candles are lit in anticipation of sit-down dinner;
finishing touches are put on the appetizer - Russian "Coulibiac" pies made with fresh salmon, dill, and spinach - as guests don aprons to cook, nibble, tipple, and chat

More Thanksgiving photos in upcoming December newsletter:

- a farmhouse in Normandy
- Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, Burgundy, "one of France's most beautiful villages"
- a Paris rooftop apartment
- pre-Thanksgiving toasts and apéritifs at elegant Hôtel Meurice's Bar 228

24 November 2015

Autumn in Montmartre #1

Fall colors seem to be more intense in Montmartre, the hilltop village of tree-lined streets that abruptly rises out of the city.

23 November 2015

And the band plays on

A street corner band at a market in the Latin Quarter district performs every weekend, brightening up winter days.

22 November 2015

Chocolate stop

Patrick Roger's chocolates are my favorite chocolates anywhere. And I don't even have a sweet tooth.

21 November 2015

Empty and waiting

Usually this café, heat lamps on, gets so busy at lunchtime that it has to turn customers away.

18 November 2015