Waffling

 

What better on a rainy day in Paris than an afternoon of home-made waffles, chilled apple cider and spiced coffee....

 ***

 The batter for these French gaufres, a family recipe of a friend's grandmother in Burgundy, is made with yeast. Their background flavor reminded me of my mother's delectable small Bohemian yeast pancakes that were usually preceded by a traditional vegetable soup with potatoes and cabbage. Accompanied by cinnamon sugar and melted butter, they'd disappear the second they were flipped out of the pan. - BPJ 

 

Lone star

 Most Christmas decorations have been removed, but a few stragglers will hold out until the last day of January when the holiday season is officially over.

Dead of winter

 

 

From a path in Montmartre's Saint Vincent cemetery on a cold January day.

Night walk

At the top of the butte the smaller church of Saint Pierre, lit up.

 (click to enlarge)

***

 Thank you C and R

 

Café to go

 

 

 ***

 

All over Paris coffee lovers who've been cut off from their local cafés can be spotted meandering semi-conscious in search of a decent cup. But it's not just coffee they're craving, otherwise they would stay home and brew their own. No, these are the displaced, whose cafés were abruptly shuttered, thus cruelly shutting down a lifestyle, a French lifestyle, of savoring time, with coffee as the backdrop.  

 

But thankfully, with each confinement many cafés, boulangeries, pâtisseries and small shops that weren't in the business of selling drinks-to-go have risen to the task. No one is complaining about the once annoying noisiness of espresso machines, now a welcome sound. Or pointing at tourists carrying drinks while walking around, until now a very un-French habitude.

 

Parisians are finding these stop-and-go places set up to sell coffee their sole reprieve. Sometimes there will be pastries, sandwiches and crêpes. And if they happen to live in a neighborhood where many know each other, such as Montmartre, these quick coffee stops will provide a welcome excuse to speed socialize and catch up on local gossip - which makes taking a walk something to look forward to. - BPJ

Note:

 - The latest curfew begins each evening at 6 p.m. and ends at 6 a.m.

(exceptions: if you have a dog to walk, a signed attestation to justify why you are out, or a need to step outside for a smoke)

- If nature calls toilettes will be off limits

 

  Above: a coffee roaster shop makes use of its burlap coffee bags to show they now have coffee to go

 

Below: freezing weather doesn't deter this man in flip flops, T-shirt, and shorts; a café-turned-hot-drinks-street-food vendor w/plenty of hand gel on a side table

 

  

 

Take it away

 

Perfect for roaming....

With seemingly never ending lockdowns and curfews, and despite days growing colder, leaving the sofa to stretch legs and inhale fresh air has become a daily essential. 

Atop (or at the foot of) Montmartre stairways and on its winding streets, expect unexpected enclaves that harbor comfort in the form of familiar faces and hot drinks, but only à emporter - to take away. - BPJ

***

  Tip: whatever small or medium drink you order - espresso, tea, café noisette, hot chocolate... - ask for a large cup to be able to balader without spilling or having to fumble with plastic lids

***

 Tomorrow:

More emporter

The parasol

A street artist sets up in his usual spot, recognizable by a worn monument-covered parasol.

Le Christ jaune

  

A graffiti version of Paul Gauguin's Autoportrait au Christ jaune with a nod to his fantasized some say delusional journal, "Noa Noa," discovered well after his death.

Paris meets London

Evening apéro of saucisson sec à l'ancienne and herbed baguette croûtons paired with a crumbly Shropshire Blue and splash of port.

Cheers!

Snowed in

Covered in footsteps, Place Dauphine was practically deserted by midday.

***

Above all, my dear child, do not come to Paris!

No one leaves for fear of seeing this plague fall on us, it spreads like a dry wood fire. The king and Mazarin confine us all to our apartments. - Attributed to a letter from Mme de Sévigné to her daughter, Thursday April 30, 1687

 

Snow bird

 At first I didn't notice the bird, a seagull, standing perfectly still on the just fallen snow.

 ***

"Snowbirds" migrate from cold climates to warmer and in Arizona, their caravans fill national park campgrounds. Usually retired couples, they make new friends as they go, comfortably installed for the winter months on folding chairs and around campfires - knitting, cooking, making coffee, chatting, exchanging stories and travel advice. - BPJ

First snow

Snowflakes fell in Montmartre on Saturday as another curfew began at 6 p.m.

***

 Stay warm

❤️

 

The sentry

 

 

The Eiffel Tower from Montmartre rooftops.

Potage maison

 

 

 

 

 

With yesterday's announcement of a stricter lockdown it was time for a potage campagnarde. 

 

Above: tureen of winter veggies - potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips, more - thickened w/beef marrow and cream

 

Below: potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips

 

 

 

 

 

Voilà l'ennemi!

A vintage poster enshrined in a Paris wine shop window.

 Above: before-after illustration of the ravages of alcohol; just beneath, drawings of healthy organs contrasted w/"organs of the alcoholic"

Soft as dawn

A soft morning light bathes the horizon from beneath rain clouds. A new day.

A portrait artist

 Mask on chin, he waits in the cold.

Marrons glacés

With icy cold weather this small chestnuts-chocolat-chaud stand is a welcome sight at the top of the butte.

 

 ***

- In front of l'Église Saint-Pierre -

Chestnut season

'Tis the season... of roasted chestnuts.

Above: hand-warming marrons a.k.a. châtaignes at an outdoor market on the Left Bank

Monday: more marrons

Emilie in Paris

Not much is known about Emilie Mey, who came to Montmartre from Alsace with artist Théophile Steinlen where they were married a few years later.

Above: sculpture of the couple in a loving embrace

Sky over Paris

Black clouds with the sun behind from the steps of the Basilica.

Home for the holidays #3

Another holiday apéro, for six.

 

Above: planches of charcuteries w/assorted crackers; home-made variation of Austrian Liptauer cheese dip; sweet-salty pretzels w/nuts mix (recipe: David Lebovitz)

 

 

Home for the holidays #2

When neighbors happen to be friends....

 2021 was heralded in chez des amis with a simple celebration au coin du feu.

Above: champagne and smoked salmon w/chive cream sauce; variety of canapés

Below: foie gras de canard w/fig chutney; AOC farm cheeses 

 

*** 

¡Las doce uvas de la suerte!

"The twelve grapes of luck"

When I lived in Spain, on New Year's Eve everyone would have a small cup of twelve grapes at the ready for when the first bell chimed at midnight, and with each chime, we'd eat one grape, and with each grape, make a wish. According to the tradition, downing all twelve grapes just as the last chime chimed would lead to twelve months of prosperity and good luck. This year, someone suggested cherry tomatoes instead but, superstitious, we decided it was better not to tempt fate. - BPJ

Home for the holidays

Celebrating during this holiday season has given a whole new meaning to, "Home for the holidays."

 

Tomorrow:

A New Year's Eve apéro

Christmas village

 

A delightful Christmas village complete with a mini Christmas market and entertainment has been set up in front of an illuminated Hôtel de Ville.  

Ends tomorrow, January 3, 2021

 Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville 

National Cream Puff Day

 

In case you hadn't heard...

 

Once again, it's National Cream Puff Day in France.

 

 Above: profiteroles, one of the most cherished desserts of la cuisine française

First baguette 2021

 First baguette of the New Year... May there be many more!

 

New Year's Day

 Stepping into a New Year.

 ***

- Bonne Année / Happy New Year - 

With all best wishes - BPJ

 

***

 

Et voilà.... 2021 est enfin là....

Une année tant attendue, tellement nous avions envie de nous débarrasser de 2020 et de son souvenir.