18 September 2019

À partager

A simple charcuterie-cheese board (planche mixte) is enough for a light sharing meal and can be found on most café menus.

Above: at La Tartine - 24 rue de Rivoli 75004

17 September 2019

Market mix

There's something for everyone on Paris' market streets.

Above: by noon the square in front of l'Église Saint Médard resembles a village scene in Provence

Below: fall vegetables make a comeback; fresh oysters and wine at a fish stall; singing to the tune of roasting chickens; dancing on an open square

Mouffetard Street Market

Start at chocolaterie Mococha #89 rue Mouffetard and meander down

Best day: Sunday

16 September 2019

Calm before the market

Ernest Hemingway described Rue Mouffetard as, "that wonderful crowded market street which led into Place Contrescarpe."

Shouting vendors, fresh produce, cafés, excellent small shops and stalls selling cheeses, wines, fish, breads, pastries, more, and on Sundays live music and dancing in a main square make "La Mouffe" an outing.

14 September 2019

Cocktail maison

My version of a "Corsican cocktail" made with dark rum, Lillet Blanc, limoncello, soda water, fresh raspberries and a twist of lemon peel.

13 September 2019

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Prague #5

Goodbye for now to the sublime beauty that is Prague. 

Above: in-spiring sunsets

Below: Jewish cemetery; John Lennon Wall; a "Botero" chair

Direct flights daily (1 hour 40 minutes) 

12 September 2019

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Prague #4

Prague (Praha in Czech) is called "The City of a Hundred Spires" for good reason.

Above: interiors of just a few of Prague's many churches; elaborate coffin of Svatý Jan Nepomucký, John of Nepomuk, Prague's patron saint, inside Saint Vitus Cathedral  

Below: miracles have been attributed to The Infant Of Prague

10 September 2019

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Prague #2

Casual cafés and restaurants line the banks of the Vltava.

Below: perusing a menu with views of Charles Bridge; chef-helmed restaurants with open kitchens rival Paris' best; dry ice used to dramatic effect; chocolate as art

9 September 2019

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Prague #1

Prague's medieval Astronomical Clock pulls in crowds every hour to watch The Twelve Apostles put in an appearance when the chimes start.

Below: entertainment on Old Town Square and Charles Bridge

7 September 2019

Prague is always a good idea

A magical visit to Prague, one of Europe's most beautiful capitals, capped the summer. Czechoslovakia - now shortened to "Czechia" - is where my Austrian-German mother was born, in the Sudetenland, an area that was part of Germany and the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

 Everyone couldn't have been kinder and more generous as we spirited from castle to café to Kirche, fueled by local chocolates and Pilsner beer. With our elegant hotel just steps from Old Town Square (merci Terry), we were able to walk almost everywhere. Street markets brimmed with street foods: crispy trdelník, fire-roasting ham hocks, fried cheese sandwiches, bite-sized chlebíčky, endless sausages, potatoes-on-a-stick and my favorite, halušky, tiny potato dumplings tossed with kraut and smoky bacon. Palačinky, small yeast pancakes (almost but not quite as good as mom's) brought back childhood memories.

Old-world coffee houses, phenomenal restaurants, a "ghost tour" (though night silhouettes of Prague's imposing baroque towers are spooky enough), a walk through the Jewish Quarter and a day trip to gothic Karlštejn fortress with a hike in the Bohemian Forest made this séjour unforgettable. BPJ

Photos: knockout views from the top of Old Town Hall Tower

Monday: a week in photos
3 hours (or less) from Paris: Praha, “City of a Hundred Spires"

6 September 2019

South side

Back of Basilica of Sacre Coeur from a south-facing private rooftop terrace.

Above: the light changes quickly as the sun sets

4 September 2019

Hot dog

Crunchy all-beef hot dog "wraps" baked with a hint of Dijon mustard and, on top, a dollop of house mayonnaise, straight from the oven.

Pâtisserie Boulangerie Boris Lumé
48 rue Caulaincourt 75018

- Sundays only - 

2 September 2019

A farewell to summer

An "au revoir l'été" get-together chez friends with breathtaking sunset and city views.

 Below: view of Eiffel Tower from apéritifs table

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