18 November 2019

Mit schlag?

When my parents lived in Vienna, a city that rivals Paris for elegant coffee houses, many a late afternoon would find us beneath chandeliers indulging in hot chocolate, kaffee, and decadent pastries. Whatever we'd order was followed by the question: "Mit schlag?" - With whipped cream?

Above: Café Viennois at Paul's tea room in Saint-Germain-des-Prés on a November evening

16 November 2019

Spot the reindeer

A favorite brunch stop has changed its awning dressing to a winter theme.

Maison Sauvage
5 rue de Buci 75006

- heat lamps on terrace - 

14 November 2019

Wine and steak

An easily overlooked small restaurant that's become our neighborhood "steak house."

Above: wines of the day; perfect sweet potato fries and tender entrecôte

 Les Fines Lames
35 rue Lepic 75018

8 November 2019

View from a plate

On a special occasion....

Above: Allard's justly infamous Canard de Challans aux olives, duck with green olives, for two.

 Restaurant Allard
41 rue Saint-André des Arts 75006

5 November 2019

The last sitting

Marilyn Monroe by Bert Stern.
This photograph was taken six weeks before her death.

Musée Maillol
59-61 rue de Grenelle 75007

4 November 2019

Holiday tables

With the coming holidays there are many options to create a mouth-watering table.

 Above: this home-made Beef Wellington was a work of art


With thanks to conoscitore della vita and chef de cuisine extraordinaire T. Caponegro

2 November 2019


Yesterday was Toussaint, France's Day of the Dead, an important holiday when family and friends pay their respects to departed loved ones.


Over this Toussaint holiday:

Vincent Van Gogh as you've never seen...
Ends January 5, 2020

38 rue Saint Maur 75011

1 November 2019


Ghouls and ghosts roamed Paris streets last night.

Above: a friendly skeleton rides the métro


Halloween 2019, French style: four parties and a (fake) funeral 

30 October 2019

Among les vignes

Rare view from inside Montmartre's gated vineyard after its grape harvest with former artists' cabaret Lapin Agile in background.

Below: soaring views among the vines; leafy maintenance hut also used for wine tastings


- Special thanks to our friends in La Commanderie du Clos Montmartre -

28 October 2019

Love in the afternoon

What was meant to be a simple late afternoon apéro turned into a meal.

Above: jambon persillé de bourgogne with crusty corn pain maison

Below: the création of the day was impossible to pass up - extra thin slices of ventrèche concealing cèpes and seared foie gras; our pistachio-coated fromage de chèvre paired with an excellent wine

- Chef de cuisine Yves Camdeborde -
[cheese: Laurent Dubois]

L'Avant Comptoir du Marché
14 rue Lobineau 75006

24 October 2019

23 October 2019

A nook in time

French singer Jacques Brel loved this small crêperie atop the butte Montmartre where today the walls and ceiling are plastered with notes, well wishes, and business cards.

Above: Brel's portrait hangs near the piano

22 October 2019

More mushrooms

Mushrooms rule market stalls right now, even at grandes surfaces such as Monoprix.

Below: homemade velouté de cèpes topped with loads of crispy lardons

19 October 2019


The tomb of revered French philosopher, scientist and mathematician René Descartes (1596-1650) is in l'Église de Saint Germain des Prés, once part of an abbey and Paris' oldest church.

16 October 2019


Halloween-themed chocolate sculptures in a Saint Germain shop window.

Patrick Roger
108 Boulevard Saint-Germain 75006

12 October 2019

High on a kiss

Newlyweds take in the views from the top of Montmartre.


- Mix and mingle at this year's Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre festivities -

All weekend

10 October 2019

Waffles and chai

small coffeehouse on the edge of the Marais district serves up wonderful things.

Le Peloton Café
17 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe 75004

October newsletter

9 October 2019