18 July 2019

On its own

In Italy pasta is usually a starter not main course but this foie-gras-filled ravioli with a truffle cream sauce is an exception.

Where to find it
August newsletter

16 July 2019

Casual chic

Love this place; its chic black and red interior has barely changed since I wrote it up for USA Today, except that Joël Robuchon is no longer with us.

Above: reserve your seat at one of the counters and keep an eye on the action 

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
5 rue de Montalembert 75007

15 July 2019

Le 14 juillet

Private party with unbelievable views of last night's Bastille Day fireworks high from a friend's magnificent Montmartre terrace.

Merci à toute la bande

13 July 2019

A Paris sunset

Forever-changing sunsets over Paris rooftops.


What to know when buying a vacation or 2nd home in Paris:
pros / (possible) cons, taxes, hidden charges...
August newsletter

12 July 2019

A dinner for 8

Fabulous evening with seven beautiful successful women, all old friends converging from New York, Geneva and Paris, excited to be together at the same time in Paris.

Below: classic dessert moelleux au chocolat from sumptuous dinner in the shadow of Napoleon's Tomb

Merci à 
Restaurant Le Vauban
7 Place Vauban 75007

and Paula

11 July 2019

Marché mania

Beautiful markets, beautiful meals: fresh, seasonal local produce make food shopping in Paris a pleasure.


Markets open all summer
August newsletter

10 July 2019

Chimney cakes

Street food from Czechia with sweet or savory fillings.
Excellent coffee.

Alma The Chimney Cake Factory
59 Boulevard Beaumarchais 75003

9 July 2019

Museum menagerie

Jaw-dropping Grande Galerie de l'Évolution inside Paris' Museum of Natural History.

Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle
(Jardin des Plantes)
57 rue Cuvier 75005 

5 July 2019

Paris in heat

 An early visit to the Saint-Ouen flea market followed by a light casual sharing lunch in AC.

Above: pitcher of icy citronnade maison; spread of foie gras, roast farm chicken, burrata-on-pesto, Spanish ham, radishes, frites maison

Ma Cocotte
Marché Paul Bert  
106 rue des Rosiers 93400 Saint-Ouen

Chef de cuisine: Norbert Tarayre
Design: Philippe Starck

- ditch the canicule for these cool places to beat the heat -
July newsletter

4 July 2019

Manga and monsters

A compact off-the-radar museum near the Louvre features unique exhibitions.
"Monsters Manga and Murakami"
Ends September 22

23 rue de l'Arbre Sec 75001


3 July 2019

Café klatsch



Above: temperatures - and life - return to normal

"Kaffeeklatsch (German): an informal social gathering for coffee and conversation"


"In the world of the Parisian sidewalk café, where rudeness is no more remarkable than cracks in the pavement, Jean Francois, the waiter at La Palette on the rue de Seine in St-Germain, looms as a cultural high-water mark. 'He is the rudest waiter in all Paris,' says the Paris-based Barbara Pasquet James, editor-at-large for Bonjour Paris, the Internet Franco-zine. This is more than one person’s opinion. Jean Francois’ disdain for his customers, his capacity for inattention, and his penchant for brusqueness have been documented on web sites and limned in guidebooks: 'You must order quickly and without indecision, or he’ll ignore you until you’ve learned your lesson,' says Access Paris (HarperCollins Publishers)." Excerpt from "Café Klatsch" (2002) by Jack Smith, luxury lifestyle magazine Robb Report

2 July 2019

Anthony Bourdain moment

Above: artisanal breadmaking class on Anthony Bourdain's birthday last week


“We have a lot to talk about. But I think it’s the things we disagree about that are more fun.”
Anthony Bourdain on chef Eric Ripert


Learn to make real French bread in Paris
July newsletter

25 June 2019

Cascade florale #2

"Cascade florale" (June 8, 2019) has been receiving so many clicks/views that I've decided to post photos of this same café at different times of the day for the next few days in the spirit of Monet's "Cathedral of Rouen" series.

Late afternoon.

24 June 2019

Hats are always a good idea

With soaring temperatures expected all week it's time to grab a hat.


"Paris pools will host night swimming, large parks will stay open all hours and special 'cool rooms' will be set up in town hall buildings as French authorities fear for residents’ health during the anticipated European heatwave.
The French capital still carries the trauma of the 2003 heatwave, which caused many thousands of deaths in France and so many deaths in the Paris area that morgues ran out of space.
Elderly people and those living alone without contact with neighbours are a particular concern as the city increases emergency planning...."

21 June 2019

Music en fête

Today is the 37th Fête de la Musique when Paris turns into a giant street party heralding in the first day of summer.

Above: dinner and jazz at La Chope des Puces

122 rue des Rosiers 93400 Saint-Ouen
Tel: 01 40 11 28 80

jazz manouche Sundays from 2 p.m.-7 p.m.

- Call for scheduled dinner/jazz evenings -

20 June 2019

Face off

Exhibition of modern art and pop culture #4

Ends August 2, 2019

Halle Saint Pierre
- bookstore / coffee shop / museum -
2 rue Ronsard 75018

Photos from champagne press opening in July newsletter

19 June 2019

Déjeuner sur l'herbe

June means food, music, art and, as usual, Paris goes all out.

Above: streets at the foot of Montmartre covered in grass and transformed into giant picnic spaces complete with lounge chairs, live music and barbecues til midnight

Below: quick tapas & beer stop


2019 Fête de la Musique

Friday June 21st

"On this day, amateur musicians will invade the capital’s streets and bars to properly celebrate the 38th edition of Make Music Day aka Fête de la Musique"