Thoughtful Thursday

Keep going, or turn back?

Weather Wednesday

Carried away on a breeze.

***  

Once again the Paris forecast is for highs around 35 - 36°C (or more) this coming week. Coastal areas in Brittany, Normandy, and the Charentes (Atlantic coast) are excellent choices to flee to, not that far, and, thanks to sea breezes and the moderating influence of the Atlantic, northern and western coasts typically stay 5 - 10°C+ cooler, especially right by the sea.

 

 Having spent much time in Brittany, here are my top picks for breezy escapes in the region, with most destinations accessible 2 - 4 hour direct or simple-connection high-speed trains (TGV). The beaches, towns, and activities make for relaxed coastal getaways with walks, seafood, and sightseeing. Or simply pack the laptop and get in some scenic teletravail (working remotely) between sea views and moules frites - now in season, especially Brittany’s famous rope-grown bouchot mussels, including those from the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel:

 

 Dinard & Surrounds. Visit Plage de l'Écluse (main beach with iconic huts) and coastal sentier (path) walks

Finistère West Coast (e.g. Brest, Crozon Peninsula, Pointe du Raz)

Saint-Malo and Emerald Coast (Côte d'Émeraude)

 Quiberon Peninsula (southern Brittany)

 Île de Batz or Ouessant (Ushant)

 Erquy or Cap Fréhel 

 

- Stick as close to the coast as possible for Maximum Breeze Benefit (MBB)

- Keep in mind that trains fill up in summer - check SNCF Connect soon. Consider a 1 - 2 week regional pass if doing multiple stops

 - Expect variable weather (possible showers), but milder than inland

- Pack layers, sunscreen, and rain gear 

- Head farther west like Brest (Brittany) for even more Atlantic moderation 

Enjoy. And maybe, see you there! - BPJ

***

JULY 23 - 26

Jazz Fesstival on banks of the Aulne

Chateauneuf-du-Faou - Finistère

Central Brittany

Info/Tickets 

   

JULY 26 - 30

Jazz at the Lighthouse 

 Phare de Baleine

Ile de Ré 

Info/Tickets 

 

Seine-side Sunday

 

 

Browsing bouquiniste stalls as Notre Dame Cathedral gleams across the river.

 

Bonne Fête des Pères / Happy Father's Day 

 

Tuesday Tables

 

 

Tables stand ready as evening descends on a corner near the river.

Tower Tuesday

The Eiffel Tower from the Pont Alexandre III.

 

Tower Tuesday

The Iron Lady through winter branches.

 

Throwback Thursday

 

 

The atelier of painters' model / artist Suzanne Valadon aglow at sundown. 

 Renoir Gardens

Musée de Montmartre
12 rue Cortot 75018

 

Twilight Tuesday

The fading light of a midwinter afternoon. 

 

 *** 

It's called the Golden Hour, that light just before sunset while the sun is still visible over the horizon, soon to disappear. Because of the season, night arrives earlier as trees cast long shadows and time feels suspended between day and dusk. In the distance, the Palais du Louvre rises like an enchanted château, its turrets catching last rays. On February 3, winter's midpoint passed without fanfare, the day after Groundhog Day far away in Pennsylvania. Thanks to Phil The Groundhog, it became official: there will definitely be six more weeks of frost ahead despite intermittent, teasing rays of sunshine, as it turns out that Phil did indeed see his shadow. - BPJ

 

Wheel Wednesday

 

 

La Grande Roue de Paris, the giant Ferris wheel, just before sunset.

 

Thoughtful Thursday

 

"Summer evenings" recalls warmer days of carefree picnics, tango classes, live music, late sunsets... and the Eiffel Tower.

 

Above: L'Homme / "The Man" (sculptor Pierre Traverse) seems to be gazing, deep in thought, at the Eiffel Tower 

 

***

 

 With over 50 million tourists clamoring for Eiffel Tower photos each year, the vast majority flock to two or three vantage points resulting in countless near-identical images, and this is one of them. Writer Guy de Maupassant used to publicly declare that he despised the Tower, yet would lunch there daily so he "didn't have to look at it"... (a clever excuse to provide him with both panoramic views and the perfect alibi?). Personally, like the statue, I prefer to enjoy the Tower from somewhere outside because once inside, you simply cannot see it, and will (literally) be missing the point. - BPJ

 

Repost 

 

 

Thoroughfare Thursday

 

 

Once noisy with cars, this Marais street has been transformed into a pedestrian haven. 

  

Cemetery Sunday

 

 

Autumn leaves of bright reds and yellows overlook a section of the Montmartre Cemetery.

 

***

 

On the heels of Halloween:

 

Carved from a former gypsum quarry, the sprawling Cimetière de Montmartre is widely considered to be haunted - not just by ghost-hunter TikTokers and superstitious tourists, but in Parisian folklore, documented sightings, and even official police logs.

 

Local tales of shadowy entities scaling the craggy walls after dark and slipping under doorways in surrounding streets - especially those near the bridge nicknamed le pont des âmes, the Bridge of Souls where tragic energy lingers - abound. The entrance gate on Rue Rachel is believed to be the official “spirit doorway,” and 2 a.m. is branded l’heure des malédictions et des âmes agitées, the hour of curses and restless souls. 

 

Beliefs about living near the dead are as varied as a Left Bank cheese planche. Some cultures burn sage, others hang garlic in windows for protection. Others are convinced their tap water will be contaminated. Whatever the belief, the common thread to avoid bad luck and illnesses is, “Don't live too close.”

 

Like Ichabod Crane, nearby residents can be seen scurrying home before nightfall. Some are so busy watching their backs as the sun goes down they've been known to develop whiplash. 

 

The good news? Aside from occasional weeping, giggling, and whispering (in French), you have very quiet neighbors. - BPJ

 

***

 

Some illustrious residents:

 Writers Alexandre Dumas fils, Stendhal, Zola (just his grave; his remains were moved to the Pantheon)

Dancer Vaslav Nijinsky

Composers Jacques Offenbach, Hector Berlioz

New Wave filmmaker François Truffaut

Family Sanson, notorious executioners during the French Revolution

 

Sunset Sunday

 

 

This kissing spot in Paris is pure gold. 

 

***

 

Years ago while updating USA Today's Paris city guide, I added a new subcategory, "Most romantic kissing spot in Paris." Today this Montmartre hideaway still checks all the boxes for a stratospheric smooch: an Eiffel Tower view complete with Paris rooftops from atop a plunging stairway, loads of privacy and, if timed just right, the setting sun. 

 

Getting there: At #23 Avenue Junot enter the black gate behind the lamppost and follow the cobblestone path to the troglodyte "Witches Rock" just in front of the entrance of Hôtel Particulier - where you've reserved a table? - and kiss away to your heart's desire. - BPJ

Sunset Sunday

A private corner, a Greek island, a seaside village.

 

 3 hours (or less) from Paris

 

 PARIS - ATHENS

 

Direct flights daily + boats at Piraeus Port 

 

***

 

Greek cuisine blends that magic fusion of tasty and good-for-you, making it hard to beat. A cornerstone of the Mediterranean diet, it’s both delicious and healthy due to its emphasis on fresh, whole ingredients and balanced flavors. Centered around olive oil, vegetables, legumes, fish, and lean meats, true Greek meals - not those greasy street-style foods touted in foreign countries - are known to provide loads of heart-healthy fats, fiber, and antioxidants that reduce inflammation and promote longevity. Dishes like grilled octopus, lamb, tzatziki, Greek salads, and lentil soups bursting with vibrant herbs and spices - dill, oregano, garlic - create satisfying savory profiles. A moderate inclusion of dairy, mostly feta and yogurt, adds protein and probiotics, while whole grains like barley ensure sustained energy. They know how to put a meal together and the combo of nutrient-dense foods and bold, fresh flavors, as we, and many others have discovered, makes "eating Greek" a pure delight in every way. - BPJ

 

Recipes + photos in September newsletter, out next week

 

Thursday thrill

Imagine stepping out onto this small balcony and seeing this.

 

Easter Sunset

 

 

 Joyeuses Pâques 2025

 

🐣

 

Sunset Sunday

 

The blush of sunset from the Renoir Gardens of the Musée de Montmartre.

 

Sunset Saturday

Stunning views over Paris from Montmartre on a winter day.

(click to enlarge)

 

Day's end

 

 A soft October light floods the Seine. 

 

 

Sunset Saturday

Travel destination: la bella Italia.

 

 Camogli 

 

 ***

 

 Paris - Genoa