30 December 2021

Rosé colored glasses



A bottle of rosé, a rosy sunset, red "humous" (made with beets), and good cheer at the Terrass Hotel's rooftop bar with its sweeping city views.

28 December 2021

Tuileries Christmas

Food rules at the enormous Marché de Noël at the Tuileries gardens.
Ice skating, ambling Père(s) Noël, tastings, Ferris Wheel, more.
 Above:  specialties of Alsace; pasta Carbonara in a parmesan cheese wheel
Ends Sunday January 2, 2022

27 December 2021

Crèche hopping


A favorite outing during the Christmas season is visiting Nativity scenes / crèches de Noël - each unique - set up in churches all over the city.

Above: inside l'Église Saint-Pierre de Montmartre



Église Saint-Roch

Église de la Madeleine

Église Saint-Eustache

Église Saint-Joseph Artisan

 Église Sainte-Marie des Batignolles

    Église Saint-Léon

Église Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle

Église Saint-Pierre du Gros Caillou

Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Belleville

Église Saint Sulpice

Église Saint-Jean de Montmartre

Église Saint-Étienne-du-Mont

Èglise Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre


26 December 2021

Marché de Noël

 Today is the last day to visit this magical artisan Christmas market in the shadow of Notre Dame Cathedral.

Above: stalls selling everything from toasted marrons and macarons to arts and crafts

Below: hot soups by the bol; Santa spotting on a nearby corner


Square René-Viviani
79 rue Galande 75005

24 December 2021

All good things

 Gingerbread trees and houses and chocolate presents... 

Soon it will be Christmas....

 (click to enlarge)

23 December 2021

Theater Thursday


Caroline Rochefort, Mikaël Chirinian and Salomé Lelouch's adaption for the theater of Valérie Perrin's "Fresh Water for Flowers" is sure to warm hearts over the holidays.

 In French.

Changer l'Eau des Fleurs

 Théâtre Lepic 
1 Avenue Junot 75018

21 December 2021

Deck the hall

Paris' main town hall, l'Hôtel de Ville, ready for the holidays. 

Below: chestnuts roasting on an open square; Christmas market

20 December 2021

19 December 2021

Bistro bliss

As Christmas approaches the whirl of dining out with family / friends has begun.
On this night, simple yet warming classic French fare par excellence at a local Michelin bistrot that's become a favorite.
Above: fresh sea bream atop Tarbais beans; duck in two servings; rognons de veau (veal kidneys - not shown); cochon de lait w/purée
Below: two of our entrées (fricassée de girolles; ballotine de foie gras de canard maison); settling on a wine


Chef de cuisine André le Letty, former sous-chef at La Tour d'Argent
Le Bistrot Du Maquis
 69 rue Caulaincourt 75018


18 December 2021

Bubble Street

Rue des Canettes transformed into a street of bubbles to launch Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte.


 Ends December 26, 2021


17 December 2021

Flashback Friday


 A Christmas tree stands in the center of Place Stanislas, often dubbed "the most beautiful square in France."

15 December 2021

Tis the season

A Bloody Mary, a crackling fire. Christmas is on its way.


 2021: 100th Anniversary Year of the Bloody Mary cocktail, invented in Paris

14 December 2021


Luxury boutique shopping on Avenue Montaigne.


Above: Dior #30 / #48, Prada #12, Louis Vuitton #22, Giorgio Armani #2 / #18

VALENTINO #17 / #19
CHANEL #42 / #51
41 avenue Montaigne 75008
Afternoon Tea:
 25 avenue Montaigne 75008

13 December 2021

10 December 2021

8 December 2021

7 December 2021

5 December 2021

Alessandro Filipepi


...dit Sandro Botticelli (1445-1510)

A stunning exhibition in a stunning setting.

 Botticelli: Artiste & Designer

Ends January 24, 2022
Musée Jacquemart-André
158 Boulevard Haussmann 75009
- By reservation only - 

3 December 2021

Flashback Friday

November saw a Halloween-like darting from one atelier to another for Montmartre's annual portes ouvertes at local artists' studios.

 Above: an artiste-peintre prepares coffee behind the scenes

Below: a ceramicist works a lump of clay

Portes Ouvertes 2021
Anvers aux Abbesses

 More photos December newsletter

2 December 2021

A mile in their pompes

 "If you walk a mile in my shoes you'll end up in a wine bar!"
@WineWankers on Twitter 
"Walk a mile in her shoes and you'll get champignons des pieds!"- Waiter at local café on an étrangère taking up three booth spaces
"Before you criticize a man, walk a mile in his shoes. That way, when you do criticize him, you'll be a mile away and have his shoes." - Steve Martin
Paris is a walkable city, and cordonneries - shoe repair shops - abound. Come winter, expect to get in line behind a crush of shivering customers waiting to drop off that favorite pair of boots that's trod cobbled byways, sometimes for decades.

My husband recounts the days his father would meticulously shine his "pompes" - slang for shoes for both men and women - many an evening, preparing them for the office the next day proudly pointing out how he's had them going all the way back to business school. Oh there were times they needed new soles or a section had to be re-sewn, but crucially, they were made by hand, lovingly stored upright and supported by wooden shoe trees, year after year, the shine on the leather provoking smiles of approval.

Eventually the term pompes walked its way into the English language to become "pumps" - women's shoes characterized by a pointy toe and slim heel - some speculate a derivative of the 16th and 17th century French pompes worn by men.

There is a French expression, "marcher á coté de ses pompes!" that translates to, "walk next to his shoes!" It means that someone is abnormal, unpredictable, capable of n'importe quoi.

Meanwhile we see pompes funebres all over Paris. These are not shoe shops that specialize in footwear for funerals, as an American woman I met mistakenly surmised, but funeral parlors. Apparently she went inside one only to instantly realize that the man in the gray suit was not there to measure feet. Or maybe he was. - BPJ