15 July 2018

Beating the heat

Rounds of icy drinks in the shade at sophisticated Monsieur Bleu with its views of the Eiffel Tower across the river.

20 avenue de New York 75116

14 July 2018

Books and more

 The Musée d'Art Naïf at Halle Saint Pierre always has something unusual going on.

Halle Saint Pierre
- bookstore / coffee shop / museum -
2 rue Ronsard 75018

11 July 2018

New day

France happily wakes up to victory, well on its way to a World Cup win on Sunday.

Above: the Eiffel Tower quietly holds its own after all-night celebrations

10 July 2018

Calm before storm

A pre-game light dinner in Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

Above: San Daniele-draped burratas; grilled Mediterranean veggies; avocado crab; icy Aperol Spritz's with fresh mint

Le Hibou
16 Carrefour de l'Odéon 75006

Almost ready

Since early morning pubs, cafés and restaurants have been setting up for the big match tonight.

Allez les bleus!

The excitement in the city is palpable as France gears up to fight Belgium in tonight's World Cup semi-final game. 

Above: chocolate footballeurs created by Arnaud Larher

8 July 2018

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Tasting Burgundy #6

In the commune of Arcenant small batches of Crème de Cassis are lovingly extracted from cassis, the blackcurrant used for the liqueur staple in every French apéritif cabinet and an integral ingredient of rosé-tinted kirs.

Above: a fine toast after a long day's work; bottling the finished crème de cassis; cassis coulis as a complement to grilled meats; a corner café; a terrace gnosh in a medieval village on the way


Today winds up our gastronomic visit to Burgundy, and I've but scratched the surface. 
Besides enthusiastic visitors to the blog all week (which kept me posting!) there are those I would like to thank - at farms, bar à vins, châteaux, wine caves and restaurants - who welcomed us as family.

Special thanks to:

Gilles Joannet (top photo)
Artisan Liquoriste
(also makes / sells cherry, peach, apricot and raspberry liqueurs)
rue Basse 21700 Arcenant

Abbaye de la Bussière
21360 La Bussière-sur-Ouche


Le Trou
15 rue Vannerie 21000 Dijon
(apéritif and tasting bar-à-vin located in an atmospheric cave)

Caviste La Fine Heure
34 rue Berbisey 21000 Dijon
(traditional escargots and grilled Charolais steak with Epoisses sauce)

 Michelin-starred Loiseau des Ducs
 Chef Louis Philippe Vigilant - Chief pâtissier Lucille Darosey
3 rue Vauban 21000 Dijon
(gastronomical delights in a beautiful setting)

43 rue Jean Jacques Rousseau 21000 Dijon
(new restaurant of Japanese chef Keigo Kamura formerly of luxury Sofitel Le Faubourg Paris)

La Ferme de Rolle
Hameau de Rolle 21220 Ternant
(in the middle of the countryside; chargrilled meats over a huge open fire; rustic)


Wine caves
Château de Marsannay
2 rue des Vignes 21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
(check first for hours)

7 July 2018

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Tasting Burgundy #5

Originating in the 16th century from monks in the village of the same name, Epoisses, Burgundy's signature cheese, was a hit at the court of Louis XIV and a favorite of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Below: the region's ubiquitous white Charolais cattle, esteemed for their flavorful beef; a chalkboard outside a Paris bistro indicating its tartare de boeuf is Charolais, a measure of highest quality

(click to enlarge)

Tomorrow: Black gold

6 July 2018

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Tasting Burgundy #4

Burgundy's exquisite fruity wines and garlicky ecargots are known to most, but there's more.

 The region's wine-making tradition goes back to the medieval monks of Cluny and Citeaux.
Throughout the year there are celebrations but the high point is the vendange or grape harvest followed by days of tastings, auctions, feasting and festivals.

Above: an ardoise of some of the regional wines by the glass, bottle or carafe; snails in parsleyed garlic butter; a terrine persillé (a.k.a. jambon de Bourgogne); airy cheese gougères; tête-de-veau for the adventurous

Tomorrow: Steak and cheese

5 July 2018

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Tasting Burgundy #3

(click to enlarge)

For many, "Dijon" means mustard.

Above: Dijon's enormous marketplace explodes with a dizzying variety of mustards, sauces and condiments

Below: more market stalls

Tomorrow: Not just snails

4 July 2018

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Tasting Burgundy #2

Louhans' Monday market extends over the entire town.

Below: France's most prized chickens and poultry come from Bresse

Tomorrow: Dijon

July newsletter

3 July 2018

3 hours (or less) from Paris: Tasting Burgundy #1

It's just after dawn and we're headed out to find a village market. And coffee. 

Above: canola fields

Below: first cup

Tomorrow: Marché de Louhans

2 July 2018

3 hours (or less) from Paris: The Road To Burgundy

Beautiful Burgundy:
Its villages, canals, famous wines, cuisine, its people. And just a two-hour drive from Paris.

Below: where to stay
(click to enlarge) 

Starting tomorrow: Tasting Burgundy