29 November 2019

An early breakfast

Coffee, freshly-squeezed jus d'orange, croissants and pains-au-chocolats at the counter.

28 November 2019


Today is Thanksgiving. So very much to be grateful for.

Above: modern rendition of Albrecht Dürer's "Praying Hands" in a Marais gallery

27 November 2019

Falling in Louvre

Grand staircase inside the Louvre Museum spirals beneath I. M. Pei's once controversial Pyramid.

26 November 2019


Daniel Buren's stark yet stately columns on la Cour d'Honneur du Palais-Royal.

25 November 2019

En face

A sculpture on a table of accessories at a concept boutique on the Right Bank.

40 rue de Sévigné 75003

23 November 2019

Fashion Week flashback #5

A light sharing lunch at a relaxed Montmartre restaurant with an open kitchen, country épicerie ambiance and views down rue Lepic.

Below: baguettes and fresh produce at the counter; fresh asparagus en salade; duck foie gras with fig chutney and toasts; lobster tartines

Restaurant Jeanne B
61 rue Lepic 75018 


With thanks again to one/all, and as for the places not shown, that's for another time.

22 November 2019

Fashion Week flashback #4

"Willi's Wine Bar offers the simple pleasures of life - art and wine, shared amongst good company" says the website.

What it doesn't say is that Willi's, off the beaten Fashion Week path (sorry L'Avenue) with its contemporary feel, easy location (just behind gardens of the Palais Royal), excellent food and, of course, plenty of quality wines to choose from, was also a low-key lunch magnet for the fashion set.

Willi's Wine Bar
"La vie, le vin, l'amitié"
13 rue des Petits Champs 75001

 Casual chic on the butte

21 November 2019

Fashion Week flashback #3

Looking back, fall Fashion Week might as well have been called Fashion Fooding Week.

As many times as we've been to the Greek Islands, few places have compared to this Montmartre mezze mecca where our group managed to nab a last minute reservation thanks to a wildcat métro strike.

Recommended: grilled fresh octopus atop broad bean purée; crunchy fresh spinach samosas; papille-popping moussaka; fried feta with grilled Mediterranean veggies; anything with fish.
Atma rosé and Olympian Retsina by the bottle

23 rue Eugène Carrière 75018

Merci Mikaela


Not just wine

20 November 2019

Fashion Week flashback #2

A convivial evening was had by all at this casual Les Halles bistrot, helmed by Alain Ducasse, which I'd written up as part of a "Paris restaurant marathon" piece.
[also posted here Extreme Fooding: Champeaux]

Above: poulet en crapaudine with its silky purée en cocotte (a house specialty); plump fresh codfish atop white Tarbais beans; creamy coquillettes laced with smoky ham and black truffle

Below: after-dinner Cognac is siphoned then deposited into glasses


Forum des Halles La Canopée 75001


Greek to me

19 November 2019

Fashion Week flashback #1

Since September I've been meaning to post some of our dining/imbibing spots - among old (and new) friends - before, during, and just after Paris Fashion Week, perhaps better named, "Fashion Week fooding flashback."

Above: Fouquet's, with its distinctive red awning dominating a corner on the Champs-Elysées, made a reliable (and très parisien) point de rendez-vous

Inside: small plaques next to tables denote some of its star-studded habitués from past and present.
Outside: a shining walkway bears the names of recipients of French cinema's coveted César Award.

 Founded 1899 / listed a historical French monument 1990
Menu in collaboration with Chef Pierre Gagnaire

Brasserie Le Fouquet's
99 Avenue des Champs-Élysées 75008


Le Ventre de Paris: Ducasse revisited  

18 November 2019

Mit schlag?

When my parents lived in Vienna, a city that rivals Paris for elegant coffee houses, many a late afternoon would find us beneath chandeliers indulging in hot chocolate, kaffee, and decadent pastries. Whatever we'd order was followed by the question: "Mit schlag?" - With whipped cream?

Above: Café Viennois at Paul's tea room in Saint-Germain-des-Prés on a cold November evening

16 November 2019

Spot the reindeer

A favorite brunch stop has changed its awning dressing to a winter theme.

Maison Sauvage
5 rue de Buci 75006

- heat lamps on terrace - 

15 November 2019

14 November 2019

Wine and steak

An easily overlooked small restaurant that's become our neighborhood "steak house."

Above: wines of the day; perfect sweet potato fries; tender entrecôte

 Les Fines Lames
35 rue Lepic 75018

9 November 2019

8 November 2019

View from a plate

On a special occasion....

Above: Allard's justly infamous Canard de Challans aux olives, duck with green olives, for two.

 Restaurant Allard
41 rue Saint-André des Arts 75006

7 November 2019

5 November 2019

The last sitting

Marilyn Monroe by Bert Stern.
This photograph was taken six weeks before her death.

Musée Maillol
59-61 rue de Grenelle 75007

4 November 2019

Holiday tables

With the coming holidays roast turkey, goose, duck or ham aren't the only options for a festive table centerpiece.

 Above: home-made Beef Wellington, a work of art

Merci Tom C.
Conoscitore della vita and chef de cuisine extraordinaire

2 November 2019


Yesterday was Toussaint, France's Day of the Dead and an important holiday when family and friends pay their respects to departed loved ones.


Over this Toussaint holiday:

Vincent Van Gogh as you've never seen...
Ends January 5, 2020

38 rue Saint Maur 75011
(click to enlarge) 

1 November 2019


Ghouls and ghosts roamed Paris streets last night.

Above: a friendly skeleton rides the métro


Halloween 2019, French style: four parties and a (fake) funeral