22 November 2019

Fashion Week flashback #4

"Willi's Wine Bar offers the simple pleasures of life - art and wine, shared amongst good company" says the website.

What it doesn't say is that Willi's, off the beaten Fashion Week path (sorry L'Avenue) with its contemporary feel, easy location (just behind gardens of the Palais Royal), excellent food and, of course, plenty of quality wines to choose from, is also a low-key lunch magnet for the fashion set.

Willi's Wine Bar
"La vie, le vin, l'amitié"
13 rue des Petits Champs 75001

 Casual chic on the butte

21 November 2019

Fashion Week flashback #3

Looking back, fall Fashion Week might have been called Fooding Week.

As many times as we've been to the Greek Islands, few places compare to this Montmartre mezze mecca where our group managed to nab a last minute reservation thanks to a wildcat métro strike.

Recommended: grilled fresh octopus atop broad bean purée; crunchy spinach samosas; life-altering moussaka; fried feta with grilled Mediterranean veggies; anything with fish. Atma rosé and Olympian Retsina by the bottle

23 rue Eugène Carrière 75018

- merci Mikaela -


Not just wine

20 November 2019

Fashion Week flashback #2

A convivial evening was spent at this casual Les Halles bistrot, helmed by Alain Ducasse, which I'd written up as part of a "Paris restaurant marathon" piece.
[also posted here Extreme Fooding: Champeaux]

Above: poulet en crapaudine with its silky purée en cocotte (a house specialty); plump fresh codfish atop white Tarbais beans; creamy coquillettes laced with smoky ham and black truffle

Below: after-dinner Cognac is siphoned then deposited into glasses

Forum des Halles La Canopée 75001


Greek to me

19 November 2019

Fashion Week flashback #1

Since September I've been meaning to post some of our dining/imbibing spots - among old (and new) friends - before, during, and just after Paris Fashion Week.

Above: Fouquet's, with its distinctive red awning dominating a corner on the Champs-Elysées, made a reliable (and très parisien) point de rendez-vous

Inside: small plaques next to tables denote some of its star-studded habitués from past and present.
Outside: a shining walkway bears the names of recipients of French cinema's coveted César Award.

 Founded 1899 / listed a historical French monument 1990
Menu in collaboration with Chef Pierre Gagnaire

Brasserie Le Fouquet's
99 Avenue des Champs-Élysées 75008


Le Ventre de Paris: Ducasse revisited  

18 November 2019

Mit schlag?

When my parents lived in Vienna, a city that rivals Paris for elegant coffee houses, many a late afternoon would find us beneath chandeliers indulging in hot chocolate, kaffee, and decadent pastries. Whatever we'd order was followed by the question: "Mit schlag?" - With whipped cream?

Above: Café Viennois at Paul's tea room in Saint-Germain-des-Prés on a November evening

16 November 2019

Spot the reindeer

A favorite brunch stop has changed its awning dressing to a winter theme.

Maison Sauvage
5 rue de Buci 75006

- heat lamps on terrace - 

14 November 2019

Wine and steak

An easily overlooked small restaurant that's become our neighborhood "steak house."

Above: wines of the day; perfect sweet potato fries and tender entrecôte

 Les Fines Lames
35 rue Lepic 75018

8 November 2019

View from a plate

On a special occasion....

Above: Allard's justly infamous Canard de Challans aux olives, duck with green olives, for two.

 Restaurant Allard
41 rue Saint-André des Arts 75006

5 November 2019

The last sitting

Marilyn Monroe by Bert Stern.
This photograph was taken six weeks before her death.

Musée Maillol
59-61 rue de Grenelle 75007

4 November 2019

Holiday tables

With the coming holidays there are many options to create a mouth-watering table.

 Above: this home-made Beef Wellington was a work of art


With thanks to conoscitore della vita and chef de cuisine extraordinaire T. Caponegro

2 November 2019


Yesterday was Toussaint, France's Day of the Dead, an important holiday when family and friends pay their respects to departed loved ones.


Over this Toussaint holiday:

Vincent Van Gogh as you've never seen...
Ends January 5, 2020

38 rue Saint Maur 75011

1 November 2019


Ghouls and ghosts roamed Paris streets last night.

Above: a friendly skeleton rides the métro


Halloween 2019, French style: four parties and a (fake) funeral