Throwback Thursday

 

During le Covid some businesses would place large stuffed bears in windows, outside on chairs, or on rooftops, a reminder that good times lay ahead.

 

Nevermore

Today marks the end of the passeport vaccinal that, hopefully, won't ever have to rear its head again.

 Above: a raven perches on a balcony

 

A spot of cheese

And the spot? The laid-back terrace at L'Avant Comptoir du Marché.

***

Sadly, many small wonderful places we'd frequent did not survive the lockdowns.

 We are very happy that this one did.

 

Repost 

***

Merci Yves Camdeborde

Throwback Thursday

The welcoming warmth of Carette, Place du Tertre.

 Takeaway coffee, chocolat chaud à l'ancienne, viennoisseries and, not usual, made-to-order crêpes at early hours.

 
Open 8 a.m. - 8 p.m. every day

Baking bad

Paris' boulangeries work round the clock, in good times and bad, turning out an essential part of French life.

A Paris escape #7

Our trip ended here, in the village of Salers. Then it was back to Paris.

 Above: from a café table 

Below: side street; lakeside lunch; inside tiny commune Le Falgoux; one last cup w/soaring views 

 

 

s

A Paris escape #6

 

 

 

The Cantal, our last stop, was a refreshing few days... moreso knowing Paris was in the middle of a heatwave. The region, renown for its tranquil beauty, gets its moment of fame almost every year during the Tour de France and is on the Auvergne Cheese Route.

 

 Above: Puy Mary (yes that's snow), an ancient volcano

 

Below: on The Cheese Route; contented cows; at hotel in Salers

 

***

 

Mad Cow Dept: How to Prevent an Attack by a Cow

 

(Short version) 

Due to the location of their eyes - on the sides of the head - cows do not have a straight line of vision, so make sure they respond to your voice. 

 

If you detect an aggressive cow continue to move calmly and do not make direct eye contact.

 

 Keep your body facing the cow at all times. Do not turn your back or run.

 

And finally, if you are attacked, striking the cow directly on the nose will deter it. (As some of you know this actually happened to me, and the cow lumbered away.) - BPJ

 

 

(Long version) 

When it comes to preventing an attack by a cow, there are several key steps you can take to ensure your safety in such a situation. First and foremost, it’s important to understand a little bit about how cows perceive the world around them. Due to the positioning of their eyes on the sides of their heads, cows don’t have a perfectly straight line of sight like humans do. This means their vision is more focused on the sides rather than directly ahead, which can sometimes make them a bit unpredictable. To work with this, it’s a good idea to make sure the cow is aware of your presence by using your voice. Speak calmly and clearly, allowing the cow to hear you and respond to the sound, which can help them feel less startled or threatened as you approach or move nearby.

 

Next, if a cow starts to show signs of aggression - maybe it’s pawing the ground, lowering its head, or giving an intense stare. In this case, the best thing you can do is keep moving, but do so in a calm and collected manner. There’s no need to rush or panic here; slow and steady is the name of the game. While you’re moving, be mindful not to make direct eye contact with the cow. Staring straight into its eyes might be interpreted as a challenge or a threat in the bovine world, and you definitely want to avoid escalating the situation unnecessarily. Instead, keep your gaze soft and averted while still staying aware of what the cow is doing.

 

Another critical point to remember is how you position yourself during this encounter. Always, always keep your body facing the cow. This doesn’t mean you need to stand there stiff as a board, but you should avoid turning your back on the animal completely. Turning away or, worse yet, running off in the opposite direction could trigger the cow’s instincts to chase or charge after you, and that’s a scenario you want to avoid. By keeping your front toward the cow, you’re showing that you’re present and aware, which can help maintain a sense of control over the interaction. Plus, it keeps you in a better position to react if things start to get dicey.

 

And finally - here’s the big one - if despite your best efforts, the cow decides to launch an attack, don’t panic. You’ve got one solid move up your sleeve to deter it. If the cow comes at you, aim a firm, direct hit right on its nose. Yes, you read that right - give it a good smack on the snout! The nose is a sensitive spot for cows, and a solid tap there can startle or discourage the animal enough to back off and rethink its approach. But that's a last-resort tactic, of course, one worth keeping in mind just in case things take a turn for the worse. And btw this can apply to various homo sapiens who cross your path as well. Stay safe. - BPJ

 

A Paris escape #5

 

 

   

Tomorrow: Le Cantal

A Paris escape #4

 

 

From the Aubrac, it was a 2-hour scenic drive to Quercy with a stop in medieval Belcastel.

Above: view from our breakfast table; Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, jewel of the region

Below: market day in Figeac; rainbow after a flash storm

 

 

  

A Paris escape #3

 

 

Above: vistas

Below: a garden lunch; chez des amis, Estaing

 

(click photos to enlarge)

 

Tomorrow: Quercy

A Paris escape #2

 

 With lockdowns lifted as well as spirits, getting out and away is uppermost in many minds. 

June is one of our preferred months to travel as the weather can be summery with still cool evenings. And it's an ideal time to avoid the crowded seacoasts of July and August.

Last year's confinement and travel restrictions had slowed all travel to a grinding halt. But now that it's over, we decided to take a road trip that would embrace three beloved regions: Aubrac, to visit visit with friends and revisit favorite sites, the beautiful Quercy to the southwest, and finally, the last leg of our trip would finish in the Pays Basque - the French, not Spanish, side - where we'd planned to meet up with friends from Paris in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Perfect.

But it was not meant to be. Somewhere between the high plateaus of the Aubrac and the medieval clifftop village of Rocamadour we realized that a searing heatwave loomed over much of the country, especially the Basque part of our trip, and quickly tweaked our itinerary.

Instead, we'd spend the last few days in the Cantal, a fairytale region of cool forests, waterfalls, lakes, grottos and volcanic mountains formed 13 million years ago (and dormant for 12,000) - an easy drive from Quercy. There would be hiking, biking, villages and village markets and, mais bien sûr, Auvergne's rich cuisine: foie gras, duck confit, walnuts, truffles, charcuteries and some of France's most beloved cheeses, notably Saint-Nectaire and Bleu d'Auvergne. - BPJ

 Above: sunsets along the Camino de Santiago in the Aubrac

Below: first night au coin du feu* - to start, a tureen of creamy celeriac soup w/shredded confit de canard; Aubrac beef w/cheesy aligot; dessert (not shown), pears poached in red wine w/vanilla bean ice cream maison and sauce caramel

 

* hotel restaurant

(click photos to enlarge)

 

 

 

To My Father

 

Masks off!

 

 

Starting today wearing face masks outdoors won't be compulsory in France.

There's a light

 A welcoming lamp guides visitors to the top of the butte to fresh coffee and viennoiseries

Riding Rivoli

 Scooters and bicycles have this usually congested main street all to themsselves.

Old standby

 

Old habits die hard as neighbors continue to meet up for coffee, standing, despite the recent re-opening of terrace seating.

 

A seat on a terrace

 Sometimes, one has to sit where one can.

Wake up Wednesday

Morning coffee, morning papers.

Et la vie renaît sur les terrasses de Paris....

Almost normal

 

All over Paris there was a festive mood as terrace dining re-opened yesterday. It was a breath of fresh air. Like so many, we'd made reservations far in advance at one of our favorite local cafés, and as our party of four made its way to our table familiar faces sans masks lifted glasses in recognition, all of us delighted to see each other again - and in good health. With each departure, the terrace turned into a whirl of well-wishers stopping at tables to chat. And it felt almost normal. - BPJ