Paris pink

Large display window at Pierre Hermé's Rue Bonaparte store.

Front row

Once again it's Paris Fashion Week as both big names and off-the-radar designers strut their stuff.

Below: young designers set up their showroom in the Marais district

Sharing

 

 

Canapé seating (pun intended) both inside and on the terrace, it's in Montmartre, it has a fun vibe and street view, and all of the wines are from Burgundy.

Where is it?

Above: two planches mixtes were plenty for four

October newsletter

Coffee gourmand

Coffee and a sampler of the day's desserts.

Royale view

Rue Royale and Place de la Concorde as seen from L'Église de la Madeleine just before the rain.

A Montmartre garden #2

Studio of Suzanne Valadon overlooks the garden.

Below: view from interior of the tea room

A Montmartre garden

Renoir's garden as part of the Montmartre Museum, once a stately home.

Below: a view from the pond

A shady spot

Relaxing on the tip of the Île Saint-Louis.

Fromages en fleur

Flip your cheeseboard (and host/hostess status) into new realms with AOC goat's milk cheeses smothered in petals.

September terrace

Taking advantage of warm evenings before it gets too wintry.

À partager

A simple charcuterie-cheeseboard (planche mixte) to share, enough for a light meal.

Above: La Tartine - 24 rue de Rivoli 75004

***

Charcuterie-cheese memories: 
  When I was in high school my father would pick me up after work and we'd sneak off to a tiny French épicerie in Georgetown to load up on patés, cheeses, sausages, greek olives, and fresh baguette, then sit quietly in the car together, indulging. When we got home to my mom's dinner she'd say, "I hope you're hungry!" to which we'd say, we were "starving".... - BPJ

Market mix

There's something for everyone on Paris' market streets.

Above: by noon the square in front of l'Église Saint Médard resembles a village scene in Provence

Below: fall vegetables make a comeback; fresh oysters and wine at a fish stall; singing to the tune of roasting chickens; dancing on an open square

Mouffetard Street Market

Start at chocolaterie Mococha #89 rue Mouffetard and meander down

Best day: Sunday

Calm before the market

Ernest Hemingway described Rue Mouffetard as, "that wonderful crowded market street which led into Place Contrescarpe."

In an hour there will be shouting vendors, cafés, small shops and stalls selling fresh produce, cheeses, wines, fish, breads, pastries, more. Add live music and dancing on Sundays and "La Mouffe" is an outing. - BPJ

Cocktail maison

My version of a "Corsican cocktail" made with dark rum, Lillet Blanc, limoncello, soda water, fresh raspberries and a twist of lemon peel.

 

South side

Back of the Basilica from a south-facing private rooftop terrace.

Above: the light changes quickly as the sun sets

A Paris morning

Fountain square off Place Colette.

Hot dog

Crunchy all-beef hot dog "wraps" baked with a hint of Dijon mustard and, on top, a dollop of house mayonnaise, straight from the oven.

Pâtisserie Boulangerie Boris Lumé
48 rue Caulaincourt 75018

- hotdogs on Sundays only - 

Keeping in shape

Pompiers de Paris take advantage of Montmartre stairways for their daily exercise.

A farewell to summer

Breathtaking sunset and city views from friends' terrace at an au revoir l'été get-together in Montmartre.

 Below: the Eiffel Tower as seen from apéritifs table

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